Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs Turbo Nova Ae92

sly-hcr32

By sly-hcr32,
in Tasmania

 Share

Recommended Posts

sly-hcr32 Enthusiast

sly-hcr32

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, up for sale is my 1989 ae92 holden nova(corolla).

i recently put a ep91 toyota starlet glanza 1.3L turbo engine and manual gearbox in it! engine is in great condition with no problems at all.

Mods are: Custom stainless 2.5" dump pipe back, standard shocks with King superlow's and 22mm rear Whiteline adjustable swaybar, alarm, central locking, tinted windows, cd player, 6x9's, amp and sub, pod and mini breather.

Wheels are 17" Rodney Jane Spiders with fairly new directional tyres.

its resprayed in ford euro Aquarius metallic.

car has had a manual conversion(previously auto), efi fuel tank and lines, and sx rear disc brakes.

estimated Power is 100FWKW on 12psi! this car is a real sleeper!!!

km's on body are 222,000, kms on engine were 137,000 when i put the engine in and have done 2000 kms since.

also comes with the original 4afc engine and auto gearbox if u just want the car for the turbo engine, but u will need to chase up a few of the extras i disposed of like auto pedal box and shifter and linkages. also u get the original blue bonnet(currently has a slightyly damaged taiwanese copy with a hole cut for the top mount cooler), a front mount intercooler shown in pictures and a few silicone joiners and clamps(if car isnt sold shortly this will be fitted), the original turbo that would suit rebuild or highflow as it has leaky seals so had to be replaced, and thats about it!

can easily arrange mod plate at buyers expense.

ASKING ONLY $6K ONO. NO REASONABLE OFFER REFUSED! need this gone asap!

reason for sale is ive found my next project as this was only the interval project.

post-47786-1222775043_thumb.jpgpost-47786-1222775065_thumb.jpg

post-47786-1222775113_thumb.jpgpost-47786-1222775137_thumb.jpg

post-47786-1222775162_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238328-fs-turbo-nova-ae92/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...