Jump to content
SAU Community

Blue Screen In Na R34

Jack-

By Jack-,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jack- Proficient

Jack-

Posted
Posted

hi guys the other day i turned my car on and my screen in my r34 (stock screen) popped up by itself with a blue screen a yellow box and some japanese writing in it.

for pics and what not check out this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...Sa-t238218.html

Just wondering if its happened to any other NA r34s and how do you fix it, its annoying driving with it up without music

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238418-blue-screen-in-na-r34/
Share on other sites
skylinelooker Newbie

skylinelooker

Posted
Posted

hey man,

i had the same problem with my cd/screen aswell it came up with that jap shit i didnt have music for ages. so i decided to go down to autobarn in auburn this viet guy checked the wiring cabling everything. he said to me that cd player is f*ked its fried it self. ive got the same problem.. its completely dead man.. suks ass big time..

i changed the coilpacks for splitfire ones and it f*ked up after that no idea why man

goodluck finding a solution cos i doubt u will find one.. everyone i went to said wtf! lol

if u find anything be sure to post man would be good to get the cd player and screen goin..

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Chris Rogers.....is SAU member 'Chris Rogers' he knows the Satnav and stereo systems in all models of Skylines, he'll be able to tell you exactly what's wrong.

The screen you have is a rare option in both 25GT's and GTt's

1R34SON Proficient

1R34SON

Posted
Posted (edited)

+1 chris rogers

Had same problem mate, in some cases they can be hacked and fix to play dvd's in my case i was unlucky. But in the end i just got the tv slammed down and cut the power. I know what its like driving around with a frikin blue screen. annoying. but yeh get a hold of chris - good bloke.

Julz.

Edited by 1R34SON

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • r32-25t
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...