Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am selling my spare engine and gearbox. I have most 2 door R33 parts available but no front panels

R33 GTS-t gearbox in good condition $1350 or Manual Conversion Kit for $1600

Series 1 RB25DET Motor, No Turbo, Injectors, or Fan Otherwise Complete $1350

Loom, AFM, Computer Extra $250

I am also putting my r33 back to standard as I am selling the car so most of the aftermarket parts are for sale. Most of these parts are in the car and can be test driven at the moment

Nismo 550cc injectors $400

HKS 2535 340hp Turbo with Twin Dump Pipe $1500

Z32 AFM and Plug with Apexi Pod $250

PowerFC and Hand Controller Tuned for 250kw with the above Mods $1500

I will sell the lot for $3200

You will need Exhaust +Front Mount + Boost up to get over 300hp

I have done high 12 secs in my R33 4 Door with this setup. Can be test driven

Splitfire Coils done less the 400km $450

Nismo 2 Way LSD in Housing for R33 $1000

Tein Super Street Coilovers R33 GTS-t $1000

R33 GTS-t Manual MinesComputer. No speed limit, Revs Lifted, Suit Boost up and minor mods $350

I can also sell the motor complete for $5000

1994 RB25DET Series 1 - Good Reliable Strong Engine

Blitz Blow Off Valve (Unknown Age)

New 6Puk Copper Mix Clutch, Machined Flywheel, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate Rated 440hp (200km)

Gates Racing Timing Belt (2000km)

Tomei Adjustable Cam Gear (2000km)

Splitfire Coils (400km)

Nismo 550cc injectors (16000)

HKS 2535 340hp Turbo with Twin Dump Pipe (16000km)

Z32 AFM and Plug with Apexi Pod (16000km)

PowerFC and Hand Controller Tuned for 250kw with the above Mods (Tuned 16000km Ago)

Had new plugs 2000km ago and new oil, and filter 200km ago

You will need Exhaust +Front Mount + Boost up to get over 300hp

I have done high 12 secs in my R33 4 Door with this setup.

are you will to post and could you put up some pics

Injectors Sold Thanks. I can post

post-47634-1222942257_thumb.jpg

Edited by Brokenz

UPDATES - This new system where we cant edit posts is shite!

R33 GTS-t gearbox in good condition $1350 SOLD

Manual Conversion Parts $200 (Drive shaft, Pedals, Master Cylinder, Manual shifter Surround, No Slave Cylinder)

Series 1 RB25DET Motor with Loom, 107000km No Turbo, Alternator, or Fan Otherwise Complete $1350

Nismo 550cc injectors $SOLD

HKS 2535 340hp Turbo with Twin Dump Pipe an Lines $1500

Z32 AFM and Plug with Apexi Pod $250

PowerFC and Hand Controller Tuned for 240+kw with the above Mods + big exhaust, pod filter, front mount $1500

Splitfire Coils done less the 400km $SOLD

Nismo 2 Way LSD in Housing for R33 $850

Tein HA Damper and Height Adjustable Coilovers R33 GTS-t $850

R33 GTS-t Manual MinesComputer. No speed limit, Revs Lifted, Suit Boost up and minor mods $350

Edited by Brokenz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...