Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for you concern 2ltrv8

But i only plan to boost it to 0.7 bar... not much at all i know. But i think that way the clutch wont die so fast on me until i can replace it with some more heavier. Then after that i will turn up the boost a bit more.

Im just very confused with the dump/front pipe.. there are so many styles to choose from i really dont know what to pick.

I guess more research for me..~

0.7 bar is enough to lunch the clutch bro, depending on your driving style.

Really man, it's a good investment, the previous two posts support the act.

As far as the dump, mine is the dump/down with divorced wastegate. As stated it produces less cavitation and interferes less with the vortex down the system. They cost a little more but I won't turn back ever, and I've recommended them to my club with the same positive results.

Ultimately the choice is yours my man, just take everything into account before making YOUR descision.

im not saying dont do the clutch im just saying its probably not even slipping yet.. and hes not even making descent power yet

10 psi isn't even that much boost

once you start going past 12 psi theres lots of parts at the end of their life and limits... fuel pump, injectors, afm.. maybe he should change all them before he gets a full 3 inch and ups the boost to 10psi :thumbsup:

I'd say go the clutch first

As Jarrod83 has said the clutch can be eaten quickly once the boost goes up. fortunately for me mine had putted around for some time before both me and him noticed it slipping.

Then one night while i was up north of the river the clutch decided to pretty much die

i got home the following morning moving at about 10kmph and the car didnt even get up the driveway

car stayed there for 1-2 weeks while i waited on a clutch 2 days after i got the clutch luckily it was a weekend both me and jarrod83 threw it on in there with the car at home on jackstands it wasnt the best way for it to go but sometimes u learn the hard way.

in other words i suggest the clutch be replaced before upping the boost or before trying to get any more power out of your car :thumbsup:

goodluck :D

i have a Greddy profec boost contoller

i wouldnt recommend it, its too hard to change boost settings on it

just jap sells a split front/dump that bolts straight up and is about $250 from memory

Profec B specII?

PROFEC B, simple to install and easy to operate. 2 settings high and low and hold boost well.

Agreed.

I vouch for Profec B as well.. I had it on my car last time and whenever it hits boost, it just holds there really well :)

Agreed.

I run a Profec B SpecII and it's mint, some people just can't get their head around how they work :woot:

I also run a 4-puck sprung brass button clutch with a heavy pressure plate, it's also mint :D less pucks = more agressive engagement :D

Maybe even get Kermit to do a custom dump pipe, or jjr split or x-force bellmouth. The results will all be much the same. Quality would be the issue you want something that will last. Any high flowing cat will do the same job, or just go de-cat.

I have heard bad things about the apexi boost controllers. Best bet is to go for a blitz DSBC. I think there around 380 new and hold boost real well.

With these mods tuned with safc your looking around the 235-250 accurate hpatw as long as your fuel pump is ok.

Oh yeah, I'm also running an XSPower (I think.. it was written on it but been a while since I last had it off) split dump into a 3" front pipe, no issues. Have heard of lost of issues with the JJR split dump/fronts though.

Hm

Ok.

So say if i did exhaust, then clutch and fuel pump.

THen finally tune with safc 2 and with boost controller (yet to be deicded)

Is it alright for my car to be running FMIC and Full 3 inch exhaust with out being tuned? for im assuming 3 - 4 weeks while i get more money together for the tune?

Edited by br3ndan
So say if i did exhaust, then clutch and fuel pump.

THen finally tune with safc 2 and with boost controller (yet to be deicded)

Is it alright for my car to be running FMIC and Full 3 inch exhaust with out being tuned? for im assuming 3 - 4 weeks while i get more money together for the tune?

Sure is. The FMIC and exhaust won't affect your vehicle without tuning at all.

Sure is. The FMIC and exhaust won't affect your vehicle without tuning at all.
Yeah absolutely fine.

Alright, looks like ill be heading down that track then.

Poor safc 2 can sit on my table for a bit more longer. haha.

Ive decided on a bellmouth one piece front/dump and a hi flow cat but unsure between cermaic or metal. I know cermaic is cheaper,, and apparently easily gets blocked? So maybe its worth the extra dollars to go the metal cat? Ill probably got Xforce on both. Sounds good?

The problem with ceramic cats is that if your car is running rich (which most of ours do, and some more than others - particularly those with base mods and no tune), the richness causes the ceramic insides to collapse. I wouldn't bother with a ceramic Xforce cat.

These are the ones im thinking about getting... Are they the correct ones?

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=275&page=1

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=252&page=5

These will bolt straight up into my hks hi power cat back right?

After i install these, my exhust system will b complete?

I wouldnt worry about the clutch, it will hold fine.

As for the boost controller, you dont need to know how to use it really because the tuner will/should give you the best result with it anyway, just say what PSI you want to run on hi and what psi on lo and you should'nt have to modify it after that. I for one have the profec 2, looks nice and works 100% fine.

I would recommend getting the fuel pump done beforehand. My car ran lean on the dyno because of a dying fuel pump so I had to buy a fuel pump off them and pay them to install it so that costed quite a bit of $.

The tune made a huge difference in power, then it got boring after 3 months :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...