Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

er... i buy smart, i buy 2nd hand and i import directly from Japan, the wheels i buy are quality wheels which usually cost quite a bit brand new, i always make money on re-selling them, tell me the last time u saw someone make money, or hell even break even after buying a set of cheap shit brand new and trying to sell them 2nd hand.

i'm happy to keep paying half the amount on decent quality wheels as u pay on cheap shit, then make back $$ while u lose hundreds to depreciation the first time they are fitted to ur car, i dont think that makes me cheap, i think that makes me someone who is actually using my brain.

as far as offset making ur car illegal, well looking at most of these cars they are probably below legal ride height anyway, not to mention exhaust and miscellaneous other defects. if ur worried about legality, dont modify ur car, or hell dont own a car, majority of cars on the road are defectable in one way or another. also ur allowed up to 24mm track change i beleive, so for skylines i think that means ur allowed about a +26 offset, which is a start, better than the +38 bs that tempe tyres and similar seem to specialise in.

Yeh im not sure of the legalities up here in QLD. Anywho all i know is that its not alot with track. And when paying some pretty premiums for insurance every 12 months, might as well just keep it legal. I know there is other illegal stuff, but insurance companies seem to pick up on the big stuff quickly and come up with a reason why it contributed to the accident. Offset as you know is clearly visible.

Agreed, Jap rims sell cheap where they are made and money can be made in Aus on them no doubt.

I guess i bought my rims not intending to sell them, so re sale isnt a biggie.

I know tempe etc sell some rims (most) really cheap. But not all rims are from tempe and are as cheap. I know you dont like mine, but they were not what I would consider cheap. Quotes varied but I must agree, I thought they would be cheaper then most places wanted. :O

I could of gotten some nice volks, rays etc. But chances are being second hand they will have blemishes, scratches, chips etc to a degree. And im pretty anal about detail. So I went brand new to avoid this, and thus far the rims still look absolutely perfect!

Each to their own, and the japs do make some awesome rims ;)

And thread starter, If your going 18s I recommend you look into R34 GTR rims. :P

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i edited my post as i thought instead of talking about all that other legal shit id mention that quite simply, chances are the wheels u have on now are illegal anyway. what width are they? if they are over 7.5" then they are illegal.

so if u want to get anal about legalities then ur going to have to sell urs off anyway and get pizza cutters (19x7.5)

oh and when i talk about cheap, im not so much talking about price, im talking about quality, they are made on the cheap, the alloy is about as dense as john howard's hair, which basically means to achieve strength they need to use a lot more metal. this usually means more weight and less strength.

also wheels sold in Japan must comply with alloy wheels standards, wheels sold in Australia dont, this means there is no regulation regarding the quality and safety of wheels u buy here. ive seen way too many cheap wheels sold here in australia fail under surprising light circumstances.

also, unless ur planning on taking those wheels to ur grave ur going to have to sell them one time or a another, so may as well plan for resale value.

most of the cheap wheels u buy here are just copies of wheels made in Japan and Europe, they are flooding the market with these copies at less than what the original manufacturers are, and people are too blind to look past the low prices and realise what is going on, this is killing the original manufacturers who spend time and $$ creating original products only to have some company come in, copy their work and produce a knock off version for cheaper which people buy instead. this kills creativity as the original companies cannot keep up with spending so much $$ on creating original designs when some company is just gonna come in and steal their design and take their business.

these are not the people i will be supporting with my business, and u can understand my frustration when i see other people doing so.

Yeh im not sure of the legalities up here in QLD. Anywho all i know is that its not alot with track.

I did have a look a couple of months ago. URL is here if you're interested.

In QLD, the restriction is you cannot reduce your track and you cannot increase it by more than 26mm. There's no restrictions on diameter or width of the wheel, but there is a restriction on how much the diameter of the tyre changes by (+15mm to -26mm different from stock), and a tyre can only be 1.3x wider than the widest optional tyre the OEM offers. It can't be narrower than the narrowest optional tyre for the car either.

Edited by scathing

yeh i fail at maths, 26mm/2=13 so with a stock offset of +40, +27 is the limit. have a guess what my daily driving set of wheels are? +26 :P

but for an officer to find this out they would need to pull the wheel off as the offset isnt visible from the outside.

so put simply, dont worry about being defected on technicalities with cops, if they want to defect u they will defect u regardless of whether ur within specs or not, they rarely even know the proper laws themselves. ive experienced this first hand a few times and ive had legal wheels defected before, nothing u can do but pray when u get pulled over.

I was going to say that im pretty positive my 19s are legal. There is no width restrictions, just tire, wheel diameter, track and offset limits lol.

Anywho I deliberately got 19x8s in 235/35/19 tires. They just scrape under the +15mm rolling diameter rule. 245/35/19s do not and thats why I got stuck with an annoying tire size :wave:

Not starting shit but honestly purchasing second hand rims which you have already stated does not support any company. So its no use cracking on with that lol.

Exactly, its all up to the discresion of the officer that rims you... Legal or not they can f**k you... Depends mostly on your attitude, their attitude and how their day went.

i think the nail was hit on the head with the comment about the people who buy 19 as a GENERAL rule... Most 19's you see ARE china crap... So are most 18's but at least you see SOME jap 18's :wave:

also, and most importantly... Davinci's hav teh super aids

yeh would be worth checking ur regs, i tried, but says the file is damaged: http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/...r_vehicles2.pdf

this is where i got it from:

http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/Home/Indus..._modifications/

Yeh I couldnt see in there anything relating to width.

Told the tire bloke i wanted to be all legal. He checked my standard tires and advised this will be the most I can do legally. Either way its not easy to tell if they arent. I would like some more offset though, at the rear at least

OK, I haven't read the whole thread as it seems to be a bit of a flame war. Anyway, my 2c worth:

I have been running 19" rims as follows:

Brabus Monoblocks in 19x8.5 front - 225/35 Dunlop Sportmaxx tyres, 19x9.5 rear - 265/30 Sportmaxx. All wheels have an offset of +25

The car is an R33 lowered on Tein NA shocks.

Now, I found the heavier rims do make a ever so slight change to accelerating and braking. It is only barely noticable, but it is there. It's more noticable when braking, this is on old fluid and standard pads/rotors. I am currently upgrading my brakes, pads, fluid, rotors. So I should see a vast improvement in this department. I would assume that the larger rim with more metal would weight more than say a 17" and 18" rim and therefore increase the rotating mass which would make it accelerate and brake this little bit slower. Some may say this is dangerous as it is impeding maximun brake performance. But realistically, my car out brakes many other performance cars from alternate stables and still brakes extremely well for crusty old fluid and boring standard brake pads.

What I noticed with ride quality suprised me. The ride is only a little harsher than the standard rims. I am just as comfortable on the road as I was with the standard rims with the exception with pot holes and the like.

With the wider tyres and an offset that pushes the wheels to gain maximum track, I found a huge advantage in the cornering stakes. Holy cow, the turn in is so much sharper and responsive. Cornering stability has improved a lot. Of course some of this will be to do with the low profile nature of the tyres and their stiff short side walls. So overall, I am a lot more confident in my whale in the twisty stuff.

Launching suffers a little with higher pressures in the tyres, and camber caused by the car being lowered a fair amount. But if I were to drag race seriously, I wouldn't run 19's now would I!

Conclusion - Pure performance, 17's would be my choice for the track. With similar widths and offsets I am currently running on my street 19" rims.

19's aren't affected in the performance arena nearly as much as the nay sayers say. Ride is still comfortable and so long as you get a nice rim, they look good on a larger car like a Skyline. Don't get me wrong, so do 17's and 18's, but some of the bagging is ridiculous. Lets save the bagging for chrome wheels. Just kidding.

Buy the best wheels you can afford, as well as tyres! And get something that goes well with your ride to asthetically compliment your pride and joy.

OK, I haven't read the whole thread as it seems to be a bit of a flame war. Anyway, my 2c worth:

I have been running 19" rims as follows:

Brabus Monoblocks in 19x8.5 front - 225/35 Dunlop Sportmaxx tyres, 19x9.5 rear - 265/30 Sportmaxx. All wheels have an offset of +25

The car is an R33 lowered on Tein NA shocks.

Now, I found the heavier rims do make a ever so slight change to accelerating and braking. It is only barely noticable, but it is there. It's more noticable when braking, this is on old fluid and standard pads/rotors. I am currently upgrading my brakes, pads, fluid, rotors. So I should see a vast improvement in this department. I would assume that the larger rim with more metal would weight more than say a 17" and 18" rim and therefore increase the rotating mass which would make it accelerate and brake this little bit slower. Some may say this is dangerous as it is impeding maximun brake performance. But realistically, my car out brakes many other performance cars from alternate stables and still brakes extremely well for crusty old fluid and boring standard brake pads.

What I noticed with ride quality suprised me. The ride is only a little harsher than the standard rims. I am just as comfortable on the road as I was with the standard rims with the exception with pot holes and the like.

With the wider tyres and an offset that pushes the wheels to gain maximum track, I found a huge advantage in the cornering stakes. Holy cow, the turn in is so much sharper and responsive. Cornering stability has improved a lot. Of course some of this will be to do with the low profile nature of the tyres and their stiff short side walls. So overall, I am a lot more confident in my whale in the twisty stuff.

Launching suffers a little with higher pressures in the tyres, and camber caused by the car being lowered a fair amount. But if I were to drag race seriously, I wouldn't run 19's now would I!

Conclusion - Pure performance, 17's would be my choice for the track. With similar widths and offsets I am currently running on my street 19" rims.

19's aren't affected in the performance arena nearly as much as the nay sayers say. Ride is still comfortable and so long as you get a nice rim, they look good on a larger car like a Skyline. Don't get me wrong, so do 17's and 18's, but some of the bagging is ridiculous. Lets save the bagging for chrome wheels. Just kidding.

Buy the best wheels you can afford, as well as tyres! And get something that goes well with your ride to asthetically compliment your pride and joy.

Great post >_<

I think he decided on 18s a few posts back though lol. We are fighting a losing battle! Anywho post up the rims when you get them threadstarter

hey guys got the rims yesterday, ended up going with 18's lol. there speedy infernos black n silver. yer i thought about getting r34 gtr rims but i could get rims of bob jane and only pay about half price so kinda had to go with them.... which is good 2 coz im at uni still. thanks 4 ya help grant nisskid rocketboy every1. probably not the greatest photo coz it was rushed but anyway... hope ya like em, wat do yas think?

post-54869-1224313232_thumb.jpg

hey guys got the rims yesterday, ended up going with 18's lol. there speedy infernos black n silver. yer i thought about getting r34 gtr rims but i could get rims of bob jane and only pay about half price so kinda had to go with them.... which is good 2 coz im at uni still. thanks 4 ya help grant nisskid rocketboy every1. probably not the greatest photo coz it was rushed but anyway... hope ya like em, wat do yas think?

what widths are they?

Not my style of rim, not a brand I would ever consider.

i got a set of gtc 19x8.5 F +12 19x9.5 R +5 for my gtt. Got a guy coming out thur to roll and fare my guards. Can't wait and hope all goes well. tyres are 245 F and 235 F

that could work, but ull be struggling to fit them with just a roll, especially with those size tyres.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...