Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As a soon to be Probationary driver, what engine upgrades can i do to keep me under the legal law of driving my vehicle as a first year p Plater in victoria. Oh my car is a Nissan skyline R34 GT, thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240228-p-plate-performance/
Share on other sites

none...

the fact is what they cant see does not exist, keep your car stock looking in the engine bay because the only mods you can do (i mean get away with :P ) are internal because they would never look and cant see through a engine

the only thing that would give it away is sound like lumpy cams and other parts that give distinct sounds when changed.

keep that engine stock looking is all i can say if you dont want attention.

Poor poor red p's... You're screwed, if your after super awesomeness save your cash for a turbo because ur n/a will be very very difficult to sell down the track...

I thought that they'd be a bit more popular later on with restrictions and p platers wanting to drive skylines. Or maybe that would decrease the value of them with more in the market.

Its done nothing but increase the price of them, since Nissan did not manufacture many of them there is a big shortage for the new P-plate market.

There are non-turbo's selling for more than turbos in similiar condition and k's.

Great for people who are selling, bad luck for people buying.

I am also a p-plater but lucky for me I don't have the no engine mods rule. But if I were in your situation, I would be spending my money on brakes, suspension and tyres. You will actually feel the difference in the way the car drives ie carry more speed into and out of corners (i am talking about track racing here), better stopping power so you can brake later into turns, better grip all round.

Im with Ian.

Save your cash for a turbo for when you can drive it.

Max I'll spend on my N/A is 2.5-3g's...exhaust, cat, turbo brakes and maybe some nice rims.

However if you got the cash, I estimate you can get a good 130-135rwkw without opening the engine too much?? Exhaust, Cat, Extractors, Adj Exhaust cam gear (~retard 3 degrees??), new fuel pump (if yours is dying), an effective Pod and CAI setup or high peformance panel filter, and some good quality fluids. New bits and peices here and there.

^^^ - What he said. :D

Not only this but as a p plater you will be popping the hood for the police/transport/highway patrol more often than you could imagine. Extractors are blatantly obvious as are pod filters and exhaust modifications.

If you *must* put money into it a K&N style panel filter is a good option, and a cat back will look good and maybe give you a tiny bit more on the KW side of things.

I came to the realisation fairly early on that you can sink serious money into an NA skyline and at the end of it only have a (very) mild increase in power.

Save most of your cash until you get off your P's or if you must spend some money spend it on "sex spec" rather than performance spec.

Later on if you have a personal attachment to the car or bought it really really cheap, a high comp turbo build isn't out of the question. Or sell for a turbo skyline or similar import. Or there's always the RB25/30 swap that can be done for a reasonable cost.

Bottom line is being on your P's is one hell of a restriction for young people now. Hell, I remember driving V8 hot rods while on my P's. Like hell I'd get away with something like that if I was on my P's now...

guh.. I dont see what all the fuss is about..

NA mods are generally hiden from sight anyways. No cop is going to arrest you for having an exhaust, P-plater or not.

It is possible to extract a little more power without going over the top and without it being obvious too..

Sort the intake and exhaust.

Cams, adjustable gears, piggy back ECU and retune and you could net yourself 120odd kw with a good tune. If your after power figures.

From what I remeber in your last thread you dont even have the car yet, I say drive it first with stock power figures. Many people want more power out of an na before they have learnt how to extract all the power out out of stock form,

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2351/article.html

This article might be of some interest. Whilst not specific to Skylines, it's still relevant.

It covers simple modifications that would otherwise look quite standard, but can help get performance gains without spending much.

ok i dont know much about the new p-plater rules due to being of my p's.

but from what i would req.

nistune ecu (if they have one for a r34 gt) it's a reprogamable bord that sits in side your ecu and alows for full tunning.

www.nistune.com cost is $250 for the bord in stalled and then get it tuned.

get some adj cam gears.

k&n pannel filter and maby change the intake pipeing for something of a bigger size.

and if you can get away with and exhasut and exstractors do it

and a cam thats not real lumpy or try and keep the exhasut realy quite.

thats my req brentt

After i got the cat back on mine i did the intake, n crap me it sounds sweet n breathes wayyyyy betta, just aint pods illegal in NSW on Ps??? ... think its betta 2 wait till unrestricted then do a conversion or turbo if ya want max performance upgrades tho

Any modification that changes the performance of a vehicle in NSW on a restricted provisional licence is illegal, so I can't see that a pod will make an exception. I believe that in NSW for a pod to be legal in general though, it needs to be enclosed and correctly mounted with a pod brace.

That said, if you can mod something up to make an enclosed pod look factory, go for it. Unless you're really after the nice induction sound, use a K&N Panel, and if necessary run a cold air feed into the factory box. Besides the induction sound, I doubt you're going to find much difference to performance, and the Panel in the factory box with a cold air feed will probably be better. After all it is performance that you're after.

Edited by N-DAWG
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2351/article.html

This article might be of some interest. Whilst not specific to Skylines, it's still relevant.

It covers simple modifications that would otherwise look quite standard, but can help get performance gains without spending much.

Thank you N-DAWG for that site it really helped, and thanks to everyone who posted in this thread. Now i understand more thank you. :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...