Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just bought a VL wagon with an RB20 redtop motor installed with the intention to fit it into my sedan, I bought it from a bloke who could only get it to idle but for some reason blamed the AFM while at the same time ripping the fuel pump out etc leaving me a bit of work till I can get to the problem :ermm:

Oldmate reckons you could slowly feed up the revs but as soon as he stabbed the throttle quickly it would die out.

I have searched, all I could find was problems with coil-packs and rough idling etc.

I tend to agree with him on the AFM but there is a little prep work currently needed before I can start to look at the problem and I would like to have the motor running in the wagon before swapping it into my sedan but at the same time wanna get the wagon out of my shed quickly :P

I don't have any mates who have RB20 powered vehicles either so I can't exactly swap parts to suss it out ;)

Is this a common problem associated with the RB20's with an easy answer :)

Thankyou in advance, I am ofcourse a new member and I have half an idea but in this instance I am not wanting to waste cash given the circumstances ;)

Cheers, Cregga

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/
Share on other sites

As with any problem on a car, it could be many things. From the description, though, I would say the AFM is you most likely cause. That's not to say it couldn't be something else though.

Try testing the sensors with your multimeter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4195769
Share on other sites

The red-top is the early RB20. They have variable length runners, using a butterfly setup to switch between 2 sets of runners. That butterfly setup was prone to failure, so the engine would idle but not rev, or rev really well but idle crappy.

Other things to consider - dirty fuel filter, dirty injectors, faulty CAS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4195921
Share on other sites

Thankyou for the kind replies, I appreciate your knowledge.

I don't exactly understand the variable length runners etc though and I am sure I will find out soon when I get some fuel up to the motor, it's on the back burner for a week or two because of a cam job I am doing on my brothers car >_<

I will get back to you when I have it back together and the turbo all booty-fabbed, I have a feeling he was also trying to run it without the intercooler or a cross-over pipe which imo would make sense with him saying he could slowly feed the revs to it but not stab the throttle.

Mystery bags suck :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4200704
Share on other sites

is it a ECCS or NICS red top?

Im with AFM too, sounds too similar to many a AFM drama.

Failing that, its a red-top mate... they have SOOO many electrical problems with sensors etc your better off replacing it with a silvertop, works out cheaper in the long run. Once you problem solve and replace 2-3 sensors (various ones love to die) you could have had a updated motor with better electrics etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4200723
Share on other sites

I don't exactly understand the variable length runners etc
The inlet manifold. You should notice that the inlet manifold appears to have 2 inlets per cylinder where it bolts to the cylinder head.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240233-rb20-only-idles/#findComment-4201396
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...