Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

looks the goods lee

mid range looks good! :blink:

afr's are perfect, wouldn't expect any less from Martin.

Feels strong from 3500 onwards exactly what i was hoping for. Martin done a top job.

This truly is an exceptional setup, and something I would do to my own GTS-t if I had one :blink:

251rwkw on our Mainline would be somewhere close to 280-290rwkw on the old one it replaced

All this with a stock airbox (only K&N filter panel) and a truly stealthy install. Very, very nice, and should be well capable of an 11 second pass when AIR reopens :blink:

This truly is an exceptional setup, and something I would do to my own GTS-t if I had one :blink:

251rwkw on our Mainline would be somewhere close to 280-290rwkw on the old one it replaced

All this with a stock airbox (only K&N filter panel) and a truly stealthy install. Very, very nice, and should be well capable of an 11 second pass when AIR reopens :blink:

Cheers Martin i was purposely heading down the stealth install route the way us enthusiasts are hunted down these days by the boys in blue. Open the bonnet and nothing looks too out of place to the untrained eye. Definately very happy with the way everything has turned out thats for sure (back pocket a bit lighter for it but).

I would be happy to crack a high 12 some day to me thats a quick street car. Cheers for all your help in getting it to the way it is now.

haha, just razzing ya.........looks like a very good effort.......and welds don't have to be pretty, just have good penetration (well that's what my Dad says, he's a boilermaker)

Ahh, so many great potential one-liners in this thread, I'm spoilt for choice!

Nothing wrong with some good penetration... boom-tish!

And Joel, ignore Pete, I think your Mum doesn't a fine job with a welder :blink:

Now, back to being serious for a moment.

In my humble opinion, when chasing power levels at or above the 300rwkw mark using the RB25DET, it pays to bypass the internal wastegate options and go straight for a correctly sized external gate and piping to suit. In the long run you are more likely to get the result you're after with less hassle, and in some cases you'll actually save money that would have been spent stuffing around trying to fix boost control/creep issues.

I learnt the above the hard way.

So, would anyone like to buy my internal gate Turbonetics 0.63 T3 Stage 5 housing with enlarged internal gate outlet? It's good for 350rwkw on an RB25DET... and does a reasonable job of controlling boost :blink:

Ryan, it sounds like your Garrett (I'm assuming Garrett - can't recall exactly) 0.63 has the same response as my 0.63 Turbonetics - they're much the same design, so it's not unusual I guess.

Lee, nice result, mate. Got to be happy with that power and response. Upgrade the cams, add some more boost and there's a little bit left in that combo' still to come - up to 280rwkw on the same dyno.

If I had a dollar for every time I've heard of someone having to redo part or all of a new turbo set-up, I'd have at least $2 so far... in this thread. You and I, Ryan :D

We tend to start out thinking we can save a few dollars by not upgrading a certain part (i.e external gate in this case) only to end up with an overall result that falls short of our expectations. We then go on to spend more money, trying to get a better result, only to end up forking out for the part that we skipped in the first place.

You've got to laugh though, because we all do it at some point or another.

That's the spirit :D And much the same way I feel having learnt the hard way too.

I think a GT30 compressor combo' coupled with 0.63 external gate rear would be just fine. It will be responsive, will still make solid top end power, and with the external gate will hold boost without any creep issues. I wouldn't expect big 300+ numbers though - the GT3082 would be the choice for that if the latter is your ultimate goal.

Ryan..

The GT3076r with the .63 IW rears still boost creep.

I would expect the GT3082 to be worse as the comp wheel is larger and pushes more air per revolution; in turn more exhaust gas has to bypass the turbine wheel.

But why the GT3082? You really can't make use of the comp wheel unless your start playing with better fuel and at the very least a .82 preferably 1.06 turbine housing.

The .82 rears appear not to experience creep issues. In my case and also another mate (Lithium here on SAU) who I helped out to get his .82 IW together, both of ours are fine - no creep.

The .82 IW GT3076 on the rb25 comes on strong around 4000rpm.

Dangerman4 who runs an the GT35r .82 IW has zero issues with boost creep but in the past similar boost drop issue I am having. He remedied his boost issues by fitting a stiffer actuator.

His 1bar actuator was fairly useless, then jumped to 18psi which allowed up to 24psi now soon he's fitting 24-25psi actuator for god know what boost levels lol.

Lee, nice result, mate. Got to be happy with that power and response. Upgrade the cams, add some more boost and there's a little bit left in that combo' still to come - up to 280rwkw on the same dyno.

Thanks Whatsis i'm happy thats for sure. Cams will definately be on the cards down the track more so for mid range than anything else. Nearly all the parts were bought off this forum and definately all the research has been from SAU so i guess i have all you blokes to thank :D . I originally was going to go with a 2835 but future plans are a forged RB30 bottom end (when the 25 starts to get tired or throws a leg out of bed which ever comes first) so the 3037 should be good for 300rwkw give or take.

my gt3582r-iw dump design,

on a highmount ETM manifold.

lives on 24psi / 320rwkws daily with no boost issues

Please tell me the motor is built lol

I've decided to Mod my manifold to house an external gate, keeping the .63 rear with the gt35r from cover and wheel...I really like the power delivery with this one. I can flat foot it off the line in first and it accelerated enough just before it breaks traction and that's what i wanted.

Thanks for your info whatsisname, Ill keep you posted on how it all goes :domokun:

QUOTE (Martin Donnon @ 11 Nov 2008, 03:46 PM) post_snapback.gifThis truly is an exceptional setup, and something I would do to my own GTS-t if I had one :(

251rwkw on our Mainline would be somewhere close to 280-290rwkw on the old one it replaced

All this with a stock airbox (only K&N filter panel) and a truly stealthy install. Very, very nice, and should be well capable of an 11 second pass when AIR reopens ;)

I'm looking to run 11's aswell in my ER34... I may have missed it but, is the 3037s being installed low mount?

I was looking to run either GT-rs or 2835, will i get approx. same/enough power to run into 11's?

Thanks

QUOTE (Martin Donnon @ 11 Nov 2008, 03:46 PM) post_snapback.gifThis truly is an exceptional setup, and something I would do to my own GTS-t if I had one :(

251rwkw on our Mainline would be somewhere close to 280-290rwkw on the old one it replaced

All this with a stock airbox (only K&N filter panel) and a truly stealthy install. Very, very nice, and should be well capable of an 11 second pass when AIR reopens ;)

I'm looking to run 11's aswell in my ER34... I may have missed it but, is the 3037s being installed low mount?

I was looking to run either GT-rs or 2835, will i get approx. same/enough power to run into 11's?

Thanks

3037 S uses standard exhaust manifold with custom HKS dump as will the 2835.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...