Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to know if any one else out there that has got forged internals with an aftermarket cams which havent been dialed in, in their rb26 which have noisy solid lifters.

Is there anything that can be done to quieten them. The engines only done 8000kms after a rebuild so im not sure if that has anything to do with it.

Ive asked my mechanic about this but didnt really get much of an answer.

Anyone had this before??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240517-rb26-solid-lifters/
Share on other sites

Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to know if any one else out there that has got forged internals with an aftermarket cams which havent been dialed in, in their rb26 which have noisy solid lifters.

Is there anything that can be done to quieten them. The engines only done 8000kms after a rebuild so im not sure if that has anything to do with it.

Ive asked my mechanic about this but didnt really get much of an answer.

Anyone had this before??

all the gtr's ive heard including mine sound like that

drive the car harder and reduce the clearance gap with some heat induced metal expansion. lol

can't really do anything about it- that's why nearly every other engine (designed for commuting) you care to mention has hydraulic lash-adjusters

but it's not like they're that noisy. makes the engines sound tough anyway >_<

yeh like godzilla32 said you can get em reshimmed and they'll quieten down, mine used to be insanely loud but i can barely hear them now after they were reshimmed while engine was being built.. think i got quoted something like 600-800 just to do lifters tho at some stage

Edited by GTAAAH

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the reply, but is it a real big job to get the solid lifters re-shimmed??

Also ive been having another issue with the car not sure if i should start another new topic or not but here goes.

If i rev the car and let go off the accelerator, revs come back down to the normal idle rpm for a split second and then drops down further to about 500rpm sometimes turns off and turns back on and then goes back to normal idle rpm.

Now ive checked with the mechanic and hes told me its because ive not no return valve or something or the other and theres too much return pressure of sumting. Hes checked all cooler piping, vacuum hoses and afm's and its still doing it.

Mechanic's however told me that a pfc jetro will get rid of the issue coz it wont be running afm's.

Any ideas on what it could be?? Could it be due to a conversion issue, the car originally had an rb25det with an auto and now has a rb26dett with forged internals, cams that havnt been dialed in as yet and r34 gtt gearbox running in it with stock ecu???

Um no return valve he said?, has it got an aftermarket bov or something? or is the recirc pipe missing off the bovs? because if that's the case and it's dumping to atmo that will be the cause of the stalling and you will need to get it tuned, via a pfc or a remap to fix it..

Sounds like vacuum leak. A non recirculating blow off valve will give you the same results though. Check everything behind the throttle blade to make sure you dont have a vacuum leak and if you do have a atmo venting blow off valve try recirculating it and see if the problem goes away. He's right though the PFC D-Jetro will eliminate that problem.

Hi guys, yep it does have an aftermarket bov only one though. There is a small black pipe going into the bov and another one just blocked with a screw, i think dats if u have 2 i assume??? I just double checked the back of the throttle bodies and all seem to be connected fine. So in other words i cant do anything else but get a pfc or get it remapped is that correct??

Just re shimmed my head, took a while- if you do your own let me know and I'll give you a number of a guy in melbourne who makes these shims- much better than nissan and half the price- about 8.50 ea (0.2mm case hardened as opposed to nissan's 0.01, and they come in 0.2mm variations, so you'll be able to rub them down for tolerance fit- you can't do this with nissan ones). They're on the shelf too so overnight delivery as opposed to 4 week wait out of japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...