Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why go thru all the BS to get a R32 ECU blah blah ???? DO IT PROPERLY and buy a PowerFC and you'll find it its only costs marginally more BUT the scope for further improvement is HUGE. If you get the standard Nissan ECU remapped, the next time you want to get a new mod, you'll have to go thru the whole BS process again, whereas if you installed a POWERFC, only small adjustments will be required.

Seriously, if you want to drive a R33 with improved performance, then you've gotta be prepared to pay for it. You cant have it both ways. 'Skyline' and 'cheap' DOES NOT appear in the same sentence. So if you are not willing to pay for the performance, then go an buy a Holden Barina and drive that !

I dont understand how people expect to support this expensive habit by spending no money ??? You'll learn matie, the imports hobby is an exciting one, but comes at a cost.

My advice is, dont take short cuts and do thing properly, or you'll find out in the long run that it'll end up costing you more. If you cant afford a PowerFC right now, dont do anything and save ! wait until you can afford to buy a FC and get it installed and tuned properly.

I lost my licence for 3 years and I get it back next week, Ive spent the last 3 years and almost $40,000 buying parts, I have an entire bedroom full of brand new Japanese performance parts in boxes stacked up to the ceilng. During this time, I have also built a RB25/30 hybrid engine with forged internals ready to run-in and rocknroll. This is just an example of doing it properly, my point is, not many people has the money to go all out like this in one hit, so you save up until you can, or do what I did, buy and collect parts until you can take the car to that next stage.

Have fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...