Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

just sell it and buy a gts-t

its a big step up in power and will see you smiling for a long time

trust me i did it

and its really easy to get more power if you want it

plus going from an n/a 33 to a worked 30det

you will probably kill yourself ;)

mmmm i think in the near future ill slap in a 30DET i mean i went from GTS to GTS-t and it wasn't that big of a step i mean the 30 will be wicked :D just tune it down if ur scared it'd eat ya ;) then when ya ready tune it up :D

Buy a GTSt as the costs will blow out. Even little things like putting on decent brakes. First you need to do a hub conversion etc....while that seems cheap to get the parts and the brakes, keep in mind you will need to change the wheels. Just little things like that that you may not have thought about. I think spending 10k on it is a waste...id sell it and buy a stock one and start your modding from there.

Obviously its up to you though and if you want to do a build to learn and to say you have done it then go for it....but you will have a car that after spending 10k on is only worth 10k......its alot of money to lose.

even before i upgraded the turbo, running around on 12psi was enough power

i just couldnt justify spending that much money on a car, which brad just mentioned, wont go up in value after all the mods

converting is a much more expensive route for the same outcome

also rhys, you will need to upgrade more than just the engine and brakes

how long to you think a non turbo gearbox, drive train, diff etc will last with the extra torque of the 3 litre?

Edited by inthisglass

I've already planned to ugrade the gearbox to a GTSt gearbox, and I'm researching if I'll need something stronger.

As for the diff, I'm thinking GT-R diff to reliably handle the power.

Ive already taken wheels into consideration. I'm thinking about getting some GTT rims while I save for the ones I really want.

As for the power, I might throw an RB25DET in there before the RB30. Just more ideas...

if you are thinking of upgrading to a gtst gearbox and putting in a rb25det, in my opinion you should just sell your car and get a gtst. Prices for those are reasonable as they are and the wheels have already been done for you.

I've already planned to ugrade the gearbox to a GTSt gearbox, and I'm researching if I'll need something stronger.

As for the diff, I'm thinking GT-R diff to reliably handle the power.

Ive already taken wheels into consideration. I'm thinking about getting some GTT rims while I save for the ones I really want.

As for the power, I might throw an RB25DET in there before the RB30. Just more ideas...

You wont. PC has a std box and that has 600hp through it at the drags, track etc and its still alive. Bit worn now though.

R33GTSt diff will suffice. Though id recommend a KAAZ 1.5 way. GTR Diff is not a bad option (if you can find a good one), just get it shimmed up a bit to tighten it up. You will also need to change the drive shaft as 1 is 5 bolt and 1 is 6 bolt (but the gtr ones are stronger so its only a bonus anyway)

With your RB30, what hp are you hoping to get out of it.

Here's some practical advice for you:

* Forget your idea and buy someone elses turbo registered car if you think this will be a daily driver. 'Learning' for you will actually be learning about how long a project car stays off the road even with the best intentions and money. I can assure you a year or even many years is what happens to alot of people who have actual experience and money. Two things you don't have so expect 10 times the pain. I am telling you this from experience.

But, if you are happy with not driving the car for a year or two you get to the next point.

* Forget the idea of learning 'engine conversion mechanics' with a bolt in motor. You aren't going to aquire much skill with this project if you are looking for a challenge to learn a great deal. Instead my suggestion is to find something like an old and fairly cheap car that you can drop an RB motor into. This means the car is a 'project' and can be done at your own pace and you will pick up basic fabrication through to compliance with registration laws. The car may well fit within a tight budget and it can be a very interesting ride at the end depending on what you go with.

* Also, bear in mind you are actually starting with a 'dud' car relatively speaking. This means you are giving yourself a big time and finance handicap for no 'good' reason as explained above. Perhaps that you might have an emotional attachment to the car or really want a turbo powered line so bad you are looking for a way to make that happen as quick as possible.

If you really desire a turbo skyline then start a war fund to easily cover the difference in selling yours and getting the right starting car, is my best tip.

Once you step into turbo land with the desire to modify, you are going to be broke 24/7 which is I must say a very cool thing. But, lets not see you broke before you even get to the turbo stage. ;)

Well said Rev.

I have a plan in the next few years to buy a HR Holden panelvan and do a RB engine conversion. Will be a good different project.

I've always wanted to put an LS1 in a Skyline and an RB26 in a WB ute. Don't ask me why!

If you want to save money and lots of time, Buy a GTS-T i bought mine for $11,500 it had broken parts everywhere but after i fixed them up i saved quite a bit, ultimetly its up to you but if you decide to convert you will learn like rev said that it will prob take a long time to do all that work and after you find out you go over budget and time you will regret it.

Imo: Buy a GTS-T even one done up then work on it from there that way you get a turbo car faster/ still learn doing more work to it/ and save $$$ ;)

Benson

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
×
×
  • Create New...