Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i have a gt3076r with a internal wastegate

is it possible to weld the internal wastegate shut and use a external wastegate?

would that work?

would there be any benefits from this?

im just curious, i just want to get the right information because ive been told many different things

thanks

chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241085-internal-wastegate-question/
Share on other sites

Well you'll only have benefits if the internal wastegate doesnt work correctly.

If its a proper Garrett housing, then it wont have problems and therefore you do not need one.

It will work, but i dont see the point. But the external gated version if you want it (they are cheaper too for just the turbo as the rear housing has no gate setup on it etc)

But he is not going to get any benefits if the internal gate is working perfectly fine

If the turbo is new just take it back to the store and swap it for an external housing then go buy a waste gate

I am running a GT3582 with internal gate and no problems 15psi / 260rwkw

But he is not going to get any benefits if the internal gate is working perfectly fine

If the turbo is new just take it back to the store and swap it for an external housing then go buy a waste gate

I am running a GT3582 with internal gate and no problems 15psi / 260rwkw

i agree dano

im also running a 3582r-iw at 330 rwkw's at 24 psi with no boost issues

but if the man's convinced on chaning for some reason, dont weld the standard one just change housings.

i agree dano

im also running a 3582r-iw at 330 rwkw's at 24 psi with no boost issues

but if the man's convinced on chaning for some reason, dont weld the standard one just change housings.

Nice, I am hoping to push it up to around 20psi next tune to see what it does, what size rear you running?

At the end of the day if I had to go external with my setup I will just weld the gate cause the price of housings from garrett are nuts considering I probably wouldn't be able the sell the IW housing too easily

At this stage I honestly dont see the internal gate being a problem...

Nice, I am hoping to push it up to around 20psi next tune to see what it does, what size rear you running?

At the end of the day if I had to go external with my setup I will just weld the gate cause the price of housings from garrett are nuts considering I probably wouldn't be able the sell the IW housing too easily

At this stage I honestly dont see the internal gate being a problem...

.82 and mines a auto rb25

the be 100% honest

the only reason why the though of welding the internal gate shut was because i want a top mount manifold

and every single damn manifold i have come across all are made for external wastegates

so the thought of welding the internal gate shut popped up in my head... :P

the be 100% honest

the only reason why the though of welding the internal gate shut was because i want a top mount manifold

and every single damn manifold i have come across all are made for external wastegates

so the thought of welding the internal gate shut popped up in my head... :blink:

you can still run it high mount, Mine is!

Rather than bastardize your turbo just weld a bit of plate over the gate pipe - that's exactly what I have done

yeah of course it works!

Will cost you next to nothing if you have the manifold off the car...

Then if one day you feel the need to have an external gate and screamer its just a matter of grinding off the plate and putting an external on.

make a plate and bolt it to the manifold, use locktight and use some high temp goo around it to make sure it seals properly.

that way you don thave to take the manifold off if you change your mind

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...