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Water Pump?

SCR34M

By SCR34M,
in Western Australia

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SCR34M Proficient

SCR34M

Posted
Posted

hey guys, havin a slight issue with the 34... gets hot really easy... ill put it as easily as i can and maybe someone knows what im on about... i drive the car for about half an hour and the oil temp goes up to half way... usually it sits on quarter... after this half hour, if i let the car idle, like run into the shop with the car still on, the water temp goes right up to almost full... drive again and it comes back down... though the oil temp stays at half way... any idea's... only started happening about 200kms ago...

Cheers

Guy

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br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

water pump will also start to leak a bit when its going out.

Heres a tip:

give the shaft of the fan a shake a bit, if its loose then the water pump is on its way out... if its tight and there isnt any play then its still ok.

other options is like what karl said.. the coolant

and possibly blocked radiator?

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Nimmo Enthusiast

Nimmo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm no mechanic but I have had a similar issue which ended up been a blocked heater core. I have been told that if there aren't any visual leaks to check the radiator and see if it is loosing coolant. If you aren't loosing coolant and there aren't any visual leaks you may have an internal leak somewhere or a blockage, get a mechanic to take a look you may have a blocked heater core or radiator.

Edited by Nimmo
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  • 2 months later...
SCR34M Proficient

SCR34M

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ok well i have spent the money on the 100k service, plus go tthem to replace the idler pulley and tensioner....still overheats, not as bad but still does, as soon as i stab it, up it goes, if i drive it like miss daisy, still goes over half and the oil temp still goes over half also... getting a little worried here guys,

DOES ANYONE KNOW WTF IS GOIN ON HERE??

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NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted

Have you checked the thermostat and radiator? First things to check when a car over heats. Take the radiator out and send it to Natrad for cleaning, then replace the thermostat. If it still overheats then there is a more serious problem.

Hasn't blown a head gasket has it?

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SCR34M Proficient

SCR34M

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well i figured NISSAN would check these things... they went over the whole car and all they said i needed now was rear pads, rear discs skimmed and air con pulley... was almost ceased or something...

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Magic Experienced

Magic

Posted
Posted (edited)

Check this part of your radiator hose fitting.

34radfitting.jpg

May not be the entire solution to your problems but it will help... See if it looks like mine (I doubt coz mine is custom fabricated stainless steel thanks to the old man) or corroded and broken away. After changing mine to a new one I noticed about 20 degrees difference in temps... the corroded metals were mixing in the coolant making it all dirty and brown..

If it's dirty, replace the fitting and flush your radiator out etc.

Edited by Magic
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bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
i have a feeling its the thermostat either not opening or shutting right.

My thermostat was stuck (replaced it and the water pump a couple of months ago), it would take AGES to warm up and then climb reasonably quickly once it was over 80deg (as the thermostat wasn't opening fully) but I don't think it climbed as quickly as this blokes' seems to be.. the only time my temps have ever climbed that quickly when giving it a "stab" was when I split a heater hose.

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R33_NICK Community Regular

R33_NICK

Posted
Posted (edited)

we definitely went over the whole car and your water pump was still fine, not grinding or anything, your radiator is still ok and it wasnt blocked, we flushed your radiator just incase. the mechanic who worked on your car is one of the best we have who worked on these imports regularly. the thermostat is what you should replace as it is one of the main parts of the cooling system and ive got trade price on that for you. about your air con pulley, the mechanic said that your pulley was making lots of noise and its rough as well which usually means that it is goin to cease sooner or later and imagine if the crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer is trying to move the ceased pulley; thats why he didnt put the air con belt on. apparently, my parts guys said that he sold a lot of these pulleys to skyline owners. and did you say your car gets hot when standing still? if so then your thermofans might be out because when standing still, theres no airflow to the radiator and usually when the coolant reaches a certain temp, the fan will come on and control the temperature but when moving, theres airflow so it cools down the coolant as it passes through the radiator. if the fans are working but only at a stage where its getting too hot, then somethings wrong with the sensors.

well i figured NISSAN would check these things... they went over the whole car and all they said i needed now was rear pads, rear discs skimmed and air con pulley... was almost ceased or something...
Edited by R33_NICK
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Levi_ Proficient

Levi_

Posted
Posted

Are you getting confused about Oil Temp and Oil Pressure? I'm pretty sure your car should only have a Oil Pressure gauge and that is meant to raise according to the RPM of the engine.

When driving normally my Oil Pressure sits between 1/4 and 1/2 but if I gun it it will go up more probably as high as 3/4. So are you looking at this gauge or do you actually have an aftermarket oil temp gauge?

But for the water temp; check your fan is working.

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SCR34M Proficient

SCR34M

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no the 34 has the three guages in the centre, volt meter, oil temp, and boost... so yeah i know its definatly the temp and it sits on about 110 degree.... As for the fan, i know the hub is screwed, i can hold it with one finger while the car is running, even when i rev it...

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kevr32gtst Contributor

kevr32gtst

Posted
Posted
fan clutch hub?? any thoughts on this? i can hold it with one finger while its running, would this be the cause of the overheating??

hey guy holding the fan with one finger is a bit of a worry is that when the car is at idle then fan slowed down or held down and car started at work the way i test viscous fan hubs as i let the car idle then get a bit of card board to try wedge it to slow it down if it slows down quickly means the clutches inside are knackered prob reason why when acclerator is stabbed the fan is not keeping up with speed of engin just slipping on the spot do the test see how it goes good luck with it mate

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