Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got a stock r32 rb20det and it sucks compeard to the r31 30et for drift

so i have a 30e with vlt gear and a wolf and so on out of my 31 drift car now wreck (170rwkw) will easy make 200

now i drift the 32 and its under powered bad

iv tryed selling it all but no good

i miss my 30et so im thinking of doing the conversion and see what happens

just seeing if any 1 dun it (iv tryed a search but cant find any thing)

any help or pics would be good

thanks :(

^^ I would imagine the head AND the manifold (head at the front, manifold in the middle).

My bonnet rubs on the top lip of the timing belt cover (that goes over the backing plate) and the front corner of the intake manifold.. if the 30et is any taller then you'll have mucho problems with stock manifold!

At the very, very least build a twincam 30 with the 20 head. Or, do it properly with a 25 or 26 head.

my 31 30et was an awesome car to drift cheap and reliable

i could clutch kick 4th at 130ks easy and it wouln spin up new 235 17s

and i only wont 200rwkw but i wont my 500nm back

drift is not always about puting out big power

Edited by dreadr31
  • 4 weeks later...

i did the singo cam 30 in my 32 drift car for a season, the torque was great fun but now buildin the thing from scratch with 26 head on it, will be even better.

i never had a problem with clearance issues running the standard 32 mounts. i did though have a custom inlet plenum with good ole XF throttle body. lol

and yes the 32 will have more traction than the 31.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...