Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey as title sais where is some good places to buy body kits for this type of car.. Im interested in the Bomex kit but anything that tickles my fancy ill try and get.. Does anyone know any company sites so you can check it out rather then driving all the way to check the kits out.. Thanks any help is much appriciated.. I need to make my pride n joy look hot : :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242163-r33-series-1-gtst-body-kitz/
Share on other sites

Hehe Bomex kit is hawt i was going to get it, but i thort it was a bit over the top with air holes EVERYWHERE lol so i got a 400R kit and GTR WING!!! :laugh:

But i heard Fibrevision Are good, i was going to get My bomex one done there.

Cheers

Benson

post-55003-1225188255_thumb.jpg

THanks guys how much would this cost for front bar / sideskirts / rear pods & Paint any idea ? but depending on brands i know... if anyone has a rough idea or actuall prices it will be much apprieciated cheers . i like the look of that 400 r kit !

Edited by zonk

just call them man, they'll be able to answer all your car cosmetic needs i'm sure

they specialise in custom work so i'm assuming they'll be able to cater anything you need, especially price quoting... prices vary on all sorts of things dude so even if some people put up prices, they will more than likely be different anyway depending on place, time and with this economic issue you'll find some shops (moreso performance related) are putting up their prices

you can try The Spoiler Shop... there are a few, i can't name them all but i will suggest Fibrevision...

if anyone wants cheap paint at the highest quality however just pm me, zonk dude if you get the kit let me know and i can get it fitted and painted for cheap

hey tenfour i found this site http://www.spoilershop.com.au/store/ they dont have much on it but its a good site to just see prices.. ill pm u the prices tomoz arvo when i call .. hoony yer done deal dude wont be for a couple weeks till i get the money but ill let you kno mate cheers legend. Is that a little backdoor shop u got going or something ? Custom paints 10 dollas i hear :laugh:

Edited by zonk
if anyone wants cheap paint at the highest quality however just pm me, zonk dude if you get the kit let me know and i can get it fitted and painted for cheap

ill take up that offer soon :laugh:

Wow i have a fan of my Kit :P Haha. Yeah hai frien, S1's are a b!tch to get kits for, coz the s2 kits which are common dont line up on the front of the s1's where the lights are and leave ugly lookin hole n shiz! and everywhere i went didnt sell 21 kits, how lame! Fibrevision is the best and only place ide get a body kit from, Mine is infact an r34 body kit cut down to fit a s1 r33, unfortunately u cant get that kit anymore, u can get the r33 style bomex thou,its alot different thou, Bruce there also fits and paints for around $1000 after you pay forthe body kit, Even if you find a kit say on a Honda and think wow i want that, jot down what it looks like and Bruce will make you one up from scrap!

Here is a pick of my car before with 400R and then the new pick of the Bomex...

post-42332-1225201361_thumb.jpg

post-42332-1225201885_thumb.jpg

post-42332-1225201902_thumb.jpg

post-42332-1225202234_thumb.jpg

Edited by SN1P3R

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...