Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been offered a Mongoose exhaust from a 180SX (well UK 200SX) S13 with the CA engine, and would like to fit it to my A31 Ceffy. It consists of everything from the end of the turbo elbow.

I realise that this isn't going to bolt straight on, but I'm hoping that at the very least the downpipe and the silencer will go straight on. Any idea how much work is going to be involved in getting the centre section to fit. Does it take the same route under the car (I believe the A31 and S13 chassis' are closely related) in which case I'd just have to chop it in half and weld in a bit of pipe of a suitable length.

I'd rather use the Mongoose than go to Powerflow and get a custom one made up as Powerflow generally target the chav (Bogan in Oz?) market, creating gigantic fart cannons that aren't always tuned particularly well, wheras the Mongoose will be reasonably discrete and is known to work well (on CAs at least)

Also if you think this is a stupid idea and I should do something else, please tell me! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242240-will-an-s13-exhaust-fit-an-a31/
Share on other sites

nothing will fit, mate. tried it.

Downpipe flange has to be rewelded. Catalitic converter flange is also different angle.

Silencer is wrong. Nohting will fit without mods. A31 have tire well there. And silencer hangers are different to s or r chassis.

Thanks for that.

So my next question is, what exhaust can I get?

Given the rarity of Ceffy's in the UK, I guess it's going to be a custom jobbie? A shame as I like the twin exhaust look of the Mongoose (basically a bigger bore version of the standard S13 twin peashooters)

Aftermarket cefiro exhausts are very simple, mine only has 1 bend from the cat back and it's only a very small angle (like 10-15 degrees).

It still sits very high off the ground even with a mid muffler, alot better than most examples you see on S13/R32.

If you can't find one at an import parts shop, I'd suggest getting an exhaust shop to make one to fit, rather than trying to make an S13/R32 one fit.

Not to mention the cefiro/laurel has a longer body than the S13/R32.

Laurel parts are interchangeable with cefiros in case you didn't know.

Here is a catback I have in my garage, as you can see it only has 1 bend in it.

The exhaust I have on my car at the moment has a proper oval muffler in position of that resonator thing, and instead of the cannon it has twin pipes.

post-28710-1225277862_thumb.jpg

The other exhaust (currently on car), you can see there is plenty of room for the muffler to sit nice and high. I've pointed to the cat converter and front pipe, just for reference.

post-28710-1225277883_thumb.jpg

post-28710-1225278124_thumb.jpg

Edited by daisu

I have no intention of keeping a cat on this car as there's no legal requirement for me to do so. Cats reduce fuel efficiency anyway and we're constantly told how bad CO2 is :) I was looking at a turbo back system

For a turbo back, use R32 dump pipe (RB20), you'll need a custom front pipe unless you can source a cefiro/laurel aftermarket from jap import shops.

As for the cat, just replace it with a piece of pipe, or if you are getting your catback system made at an exhaust shop, just have them make it longer to meet the front pipe.

Having a bit of language difficulty here. I'm guessing by dump pipe you're refering to the bit immediately after the turbo elbow? I'd call it the downpipe.

No idea what a front pipe is, sorry.

Edit: A bit of googling and looking at pictures of bits of exhaust on Australian parts websites, and I'm now guessing dump pipe = turbo elbow and front pipe = downpipe?

Edited by Lum
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Any idea if KTS exhausts are any good?

Looking at the dump/front pipe from here then get the rest custom build locally. Does this seem like a good plan or should I get the entire thing built custom?

hey mate , i build custom exhausts for a living ( sister lives in wales too lol but im stuck in aus ) . if you can source the front pipe easily then do it . off the shelf will always be cheaper than custom made . custom stuff is needed for when your car is modified or rare . source the front pipe and then get the rest custom made . either that or try to source a complete exhaust from japan to suit . seeing as you dont need to run a cat in the u.k you may have some luck getting one off a race car

kermit

hey mate , i build custom exhausts for a living ( sister lives in wales too lol but im stuck in aus ) . if you can source the front pipe easily then do it . off the shelf will always be cheaper than custom made . custom stuff is needed for when your car is modified or rare . source the front pipe and then get the rest custom made . either that or try to source a complete exhaust from japan to suit . seeing as you dont need to run a cat in the u.k you may have some luck getting one off a race car

kermit

Thanks for that. Problem with getting stuff from Japan is the cost of postage, plus the pound isn't doing very well right now plug all the decent Japanese makes are really expensive anyway. Do the pics of those KTS parts look like they're decently made or do you think I should avoid them and find something else?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...