Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

KowP - I suggest u stop bagging Sunny's :( I still have mine! In fact I drive it almost everyday day to work and back (1hr drive - one way)

Tis a lovely silver beast thats never missed a beat. Was my first car ......in fact the damn thing will prolly outlast me!

My first car exploded...complete with fireball and stuff...it was a proton persona. Started from the battery compartment somehow. Insurance company labeled it under 'disaster'...it took them a while to think of that. Luckily the car died quite a while before it caught fire. Didn't hit anyone, just died on me n exploded.

'88 Laser...sold it to a little old lady :(

she brought a male friend along to check it out, and he commented how it had good tread.... the tyres were nearly bald!! I just agreed and kept my mouth shut lol :)

I used to still see it heaps after i sold it cos she worked at a Harvey Norman near my work :) She even left the surfie sticker i had on it lol

my first REAL CAR..had some before but P.O.S..

was my r30 which i just sold *wait for it* $500 2.4 ltr 5 speed in alright nick,300zx mags,just a sad day and its gunna be sold unless i can find a buyer near A.C.T willing to change my mind $$$..

*cries*

Originally posted by Obseshn

Still have my first car.  

http://www.syndicatemotorsports.org/cars/corolla.html for some pics

off topic you aint from tuggy in A.C.T are you..:bahaha: just seeing your pics looks familiar,used to live in canberra,thats all..
Guest outlawskyline

A 1974 canary yellow carolla, u couldve ran it off the line!!!, it was a car at the time!! until i didnt give way on a roundabout and got t boned by a red pintara, alot of fond memories in the old girl, it was my older sisters, then mine, then my little sis, my little bro didnt get the chance as it has retired to a farm

Originally posted by hoon69

off topic you aint from tuggy in A.C.T are you..:bahaha: just seeing your pics looks familiar,used to live in canberra,thats all..

yeah cool i thought it'd be local,yeah i watch syndicatesports site regulary,but yeah ..

BACK ON TOPIC:my first car is now still my 1st car it failed to sell,phew in a way,but hey im still looking for the cash,but yeah i might bring her home to qld and keep her...make her into a sleeper,i think,*winks*..:bahaha:

My first car was a 1979 Toyota Carolla SE. the thing went hard at first, but when you had to have 2 guys hold you back in the gravel to do a burnout, there is something wrong there.

then a ford laser 84 sports, then a nonturbo silvia. and finally the best car, a SKYLINE! :):D

1978 TE Cortina, fieces brown 4 speed manual. Never ended up getting registered but served as an excellent get-around-in-the middle-of-the-night-in-a-country-town kind of car. Was sold to bogan for panels for his stacked 250 Cross Flow Cortina, also featured in fieces brown.

Then:ZA (I think) Fairlane 302, also never registered

1979 Sigma Wagon, complete with Dukes of Hazard Racing stripes and 69 on the bonnet. Many a road trip.

1993 VP Crapadore V6, fried the auto with mates holding up the back to do a burnout.

1993 Silvia Qs, why I didnt just get a turbo I dont know?

1997 Fairmont Ghia, Tickford susp and kit, Simmons rims, was a tag job though

1993 R33 200kws at rears

1987 AE82 Corolla

1993 R33, should have just kept the old one...

1989 R32 GTR sitting Japan awaiting DOTARS ruling on 15 Year rule.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...