Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if 243Hp @ the wheels on 10psi with the current setup is decent as i just got a dyno tune today and not sure what i should expect out of my stock turbo. So if you got a stock turbo or running an safc cos i'd like to see how much i can squeeze out my safc.

could you post your dyno results! dyno graphs also if available =)

mods are

-autobahn fmic

-3" hks dragger

-walbro pump

-apexi induction

-safc2

cheers

post-54106-1225980503_thumb.jpg

I got my car tuned yesterday And she pulled 179KW ( 240hp )

Running-

Blitz Intercooler

APEXi RSM Metre

APEXi SAFC metre

Splitfire Coilpacks

Full Jasma 3" Stainless exhaust

Only running standard boost till i get a Boost controller...

Yeah that right on the money having a power fc with those mods wont make alot of difference power wise.

Bumping up to 12-14psi wont improve power on stock turbo, wouldnt be good for turbo either. It will improve mid range however.

^

^

280hp would be bs for these mods John

280hp would be bs for these mods John
beg the differ seen plenty of "happy" 33's make 270 272 276 278 hp on many occasions just depends of where you go, you all know the story...

next mods should be

high flow cat

pfc

z32 afm

bosch pump (get rid of the walbro item but it will do for now)

decent clutch if not changed already..

i have around 200rwkw on a stock turbo ran on a mainline dyno . i know running 13 psi isn't great for it but hasn't died yet. waiting for turbo to choke it self soo i have a good excuse to install my new one in. but still waiting for it to die :D and its not showing any signs so far of it giving up.

put it on a happy dynodynamics dyno and u will get 280hp on stock turbo.

Edited by tets

have you got a graph showing a/f mix? its sounds pretty right but you could bump it up to 12psi for a little extra power. mine made 200kw on 12psi but I have a jap remaped ecu picking up the timming.

very happy!!!

after the tune, to be honest i wasn't very happy at all with the results because the car felt like it pulled more before the tune.

i thought to myself.."this cant be, it's just been tuned..the car can only get better not worst"

not being able to convince myself i got the tools out after work and popped the bonnet open.

- intercooler piping..check! (all tight)...

- vacuum lines had no apparent cracks and also sprayed a little amount of water, no bubbling..UNTIL i got to the bov vacuum line,

few bubbles starting to appear, looked closer and it had alot of cracks and visible wearing. cut a piece off and refitted, and then also saw that the hoseclamp wasn't tightened. it was LOOSE, i could pull it right off.

- stock bov..wiggled it around abit, what the? its shaking and then pop went the top bolt into my coilpacks, got the sucker and tightened it back on.

- everything else seemed fine so i went for a drive

it pulls like a train now!!!!

not sure why my tuner didnt pick it up though?

quite angry cos now it means it was just a waste of a tune..would it be best to get another tune?

Edited by Richy08

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...