Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day!

Just wondering if I could get some assistance for my next planned upgrade on my car...

So far I've got 3" turbo-back and a Greddy intercooler, I've also got a NISMO fuel pump that is yet to be fitted, and I'm going to be buying a VIPEC sometime in Janurary.. However, since my intercooler upgrade, by stock intake system has been somewhat 'truncated' and now isn't flowing that efficiently. I'm leaning towards a boxed pod, however, due to the fact I half live in the country, I've been told that dust and pods aren't really the best of mates. If I do go that way, I've read that K&N are the best filtering, and 3rd best for flow of many pod filters tested in Aus.. However, i've also been reading that ARC make some pretty nifty producted, and I'm particularly interested in the super-induction box.. Now is it a box for a pod or is it a replacement for the stock air-box??? Do they work well or not??

Also, what are the flow/filteration rates like on the SIA?? Also, are they legal here in WA??

Please, I'm asking anyone that has a super-induction box in their car to throw up some pix.. Also, any adivse on the pod setup is very welcome! :cheers:

Just need some pointers!

Thanks!

Mark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243777-arc-super-inductionpod-setup/
Share on other sites

I've got an ARC box but haven't fitted it up.. brackets don't make sense and I need to devise a way to get cool air to the TOP of the box :P

Looks like a nice bit of kit, basically it's a replacement airbox with a panel filter on top. Really needs a small scoop directly above it and some foam to seal to bonnet me thinks.

As Phemline said... I don't see why an induction box would be illegal if it is tightly secured.

flow and filtration should be good, I'd be more concerned about the temperature of the air going into it.

Technically all pods are supposed to be boxed and secured anyway. You shouldnt have an issue with legality.

pods do NOT have to be boxed only secured

Marco just get a K&N panel filter to go straight into your stock airbox

Edited by gazza750
pods do NOT have to be boxed only secured

Marco just get a K&N panel filter to go straight into your stock airbox

Well that is what I wanted to do in the first place.. However after I got my intercooler installed I noticed that the induction part to my airbox had to be taken off in order to fit the intercooler piping... Hence my airbox is sucking in hot air from the engine bay, as opposed to drawing in cool air from the front.. Hence the airbox has lost the greater part of its efficiency and it makes more sense looking for an alternative setup..

As Phemline said... I don't see why an induction box would be illegal if it is tightly secured.

flow and filtration should be good, I'd be more concerned about the temperature of the air going into it.

Hey Dukes, I heard you make a CAI for your pod setup... Any chance you could throw up a few pics??

Yep,

I had the same problem the stock snorkel wouldn't fit, so got a pod, but it looked like cop bait.

So i made a template out of cardboard, then marked and cut some sheet metal, then spray painted it, I used wrinkle paint to get a stock look, and got clarkrubber pinch weld for the edges.

post-47680-1226303134_thumb.jpg

post-47680-1226303145_thumb.jpg

post-47680-1226303160_thumb.jpg

post-47680-1226303172_thumb.jpg

I got some 1.6mm ally sheet and used the jigsaw to cut 2 strips out then bolted them from the afm/pod bolts back to the chassis, worked a treat and passed the pits fine.

I also had one of my cooler pipes cable tied back to the waterpipe that comes off the manifold, in an effort to keep the pipe off the fan when the bonnet closed.. also passed the pits fine :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...