Ideas For Crank And Cam Position Sensor Set Ups?

[Chris Wilson]

I want to ditch the stock CAS and run separate crank and cam position sensors to feed my Motec M800. I would welcome a look see at any other peoples set ups. I'd prefer to keep the stock crank damper. Thanks.

[Shaun]

My tuner wants me to dump the stock cas and get the signal from the crank pulley because my timing is moving around a bit at high rpm. I havent looked into it yet, but he has a bracket made up and somehow integrates a trigger disk into the bracket and balancer down there. Its not really of any help to you, but i just thought id mention that they have had great success with these set ups.

Shaun.

[shanef]

See here:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/641917-post320.html

[Adriano]

If the motor is not in the car, you may be able to use a pickup off the flywheel

[Swiper the Fox]

If the motor is not in the car, you may be able to use a pickup off the flywheel

Thats how we do it...custom billet flywheel with 'blocks' left on it and the pick-up mounted on the belhousing cover (thin plate between engine and gearbox)

[Chris Wilson]

Thanks for the help everyone, not been able to do much recently as I have been doing work on my Toyota turbo project, but have now got some further progress in with the Skyline engine. I have now finished the crank trigger wheel. I was told by Motec and others that the stock optical trigger, cam mounted, was inaccurate and unreliable, so opted, later than I had anticipated, to convert the engine to a proper toothed crank trigger reference wheel, and a separate cam driven, single toothed reference wheel trigger. I bought a commercially available, laser cut 36 less one toothed wheel from a UK company (www.Trigger-Wheels.com). It was incredibly heavy, as it was a solid 6mm thick piece of steel disc with just the teeth cut on it, and that bugged me I milled it out with with 12 windows in it, and made an alloy hub to concentrically mount it to the stock crank damper, being sure to mount it to the central hub of the damper, which is solidly attached to the crank nose, and not the outer, rubber damped sections, which would lead to movement and inaccuracy in reading the crank angle. The whole engine had previously been balanced, but luckily I had opted for the more expensive, each part balanced individually, approach, so the balancers now could just re-balance the damper and trigger wheel assembly on its own. It was 325 grammes out at 8000 RPM, and they balanced it to 35 grammes. I use a company called Wilkinson Dynamic Balancing for high end stuff, they are superb, and one of the very few companies that can do things like V10's and straight 5's properly. Every balance gets written certification and they know enough about engines not to *ugger something up by chewing material off daft places

I am now making the support for the crank trigger sensor, and a plate to use the stock optical sensor casting to mount a cam trigger sensor. I also need to modify the cam pulley to take a single tooth, for the sensor to "read".

I need to weld an oil drain in the sump, and the breather fittings to the cam covers, and fit the oil drain pipe to the head, and make up the drain hose. I had to buy an RB26 PAS pump, pulley wheel, and mounting and tensioning brackets, as the RB25 one I had was different and didn't line up, or have the same number of belt grooves as the RB26 crank damper. I managed to get a low mileage, used set up from Abbey Motorsport for a very fair price. They have helped with some other odds and sods, too, as have RB Motorsport, these are UK companies, by the way, which is where I live.

Wilkinson Dynamic Balancing are at http://www.wdbltd.co.uk/

A photo of the completed trigger, before painting, is below, further pics at http://www.gatesgarth.com/RB26 Race Engine7/trigger.html