Jump to content
SAU Community

Lewis Engine Rebuilders

wanted r34gtr

By wanted r34gtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
I see no reason to turn this in to a dirt pissing contest. His ability to build an engine is well documented.

We all have our favorite spanners but if i lived in adelaide there's no way I would be getting dirt or dan to do my work, There are good builders in all major centres, Why would you risk dragging engines half way round the country when it can be done locally.

Dan from elite is my builder and i wouldnt have it any other way. But If I lived near the dirt man I would have no qualms about getting him to screw my donks together.

(If he didnt leave a note taped to the engine telling me the timing belt needed tensioning tho I would firebomb his house :( )

Thanks Noel...top stuff. I for the life of me cannot work out why all the smartasses are the ones who couldn't screw a 2 dollar whore, let alone an engine together. It is quite common for an engine to leave a shop with a masking tape note on it to instruct the installer of things that are required before start-up. i.e. the crank pulley and or timing belt tensioning...even telling them to fill with the correct grade run-in oil!...the example below is from Croydon racing telling me what needs to be checked before start-up. If anyone thinks they can properly tension an RB26 crank pulley on an engine stand...id like to know! Ive been building engines for various cars since i was 16 years old and have never had a problem with any engine due to poor workmanship. The build quality of all the cars ive owned is top shelf, as i accept nothing less. I dont care where people go to get their work done as im building engines for the love of it as a hobby and not as a business. The people who have been able to secure my time and services are impressed by the attention to detail, the constant feedback and advice i give. If it chirps 2nd...im happy and so are they.

img0012la5.jpg

Edited by DiRTgarage
skyhighR33 Community Regular

skyhighR33

Posted
Posted

mmm looks good dirt garage can you pm me some tips and things i may use on my street engine i am trying to cahse between 300-400kwatw. if that is no hassle to you mate id like to hear from you or others about the tips.

cheers... michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...