Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mroe than likely the voltage level of the battery when connected was too low for teh charger to operate - alot of them have this feature but im not sure why

jump start charge it, then hook up the charger after 20 mins or so.

how did you go with the charger, id just go a yellow top dry cell.

Hmm.. well it finished charging. Will try to put it back later today.

I was hoping to put in a yellow top as you suggested (although I still think $360 for a battery is quite steep), but the battery cables aren't long enough to accomodate a bigger battery, and I'd have to change ther terminal rings to bigger ones as well.

Ground cable connection, which I could possibly replace to accomodate a bigger battery.

M0005.jpg

+ve terminal connection

M0014.jpg

The positive terminal is wired into this power supply thing. Try as I might, I cannot remove it. This is a bummer as it means I am restricted to buying batteries only as high as my old tiny battery, as there is no slack in the wire when the battery is there.

Apart from the +ve and -ve terminals, there is a drain tube of some sort going into the battery

M0009.jpg

which slots into this hole in the battery

M0011.jpg

I have no idea what this is... is this for leaking acid or something? I would have thought the Pitwork battery that Nissan put in the stock GTR would have been a sealed type, and wouldn't need this.

Its normal mate, my gts-t has that wierd hole which u connect to that clear hose and goes under the car. I think it is for acid spillage or something like that.

Got my battery hooked up to a charger now. Thats what u get when the car isnt used for 6 months lol

+ve terminal connection

http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/mrphatboy/M0014.jpg

The positive terminal is wired into this power supply thing. Try as I might, I cannot remove it. This is a bummer as it means I am restricted to buying batteries only as high as my old tiny battery, as there is no slack in the wire when the battery is there.

It's not actually wired in. Pop the red boot at the bottom there and there should be a nut. Get to it with a socket and you'll be able to get that positive wire out and replace it.

I went to a battery place that wanted to charge me $100 to do it. So I went home and started pulling things apart. I got the positive wire off within minutes. Replaced with cable, eyelets, and new terminal from Jaycar. Cost me about $10 and 20mins of my time.

Yeah that pipe is for leaking battery fluid, if you run a yelow top then you wont need this as they are a sealed bettery.

As for your ground / Power cable as wilch said just pop down to Jaycar to get the parts and do it yourself. While your at it get a nice set of terminals, especialy if your running extra power cables to amps, it would be worthwhile running a couple of extra grounds as well.

The old battery went in and the car starts up! Finally!

Thanks for your help Stokesy. I will keep that in mind when I need to change the battery. That metal plate thing in the boot is a friggin bastard to get out and put back in. Hopefully won't need to do it again soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...