Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

theres a R30 TI hatch at pick a part-heatherdale road, 5 speed too!!!

I saw it 2 weeks ago so cant guarantee its still there or in one piece.

I may be able to drive out there in my lunch break to check for ya later this week.

oh duh... i think i have at least one in my bits box in the shed.... will see tonight.

Cheers mate, if you find the one in the garage, or hit pick a part before I do, can you grab the rear passenger side caliper for me? Ill fix you up of course. D

BUGGER! Someone poached the brakes from the r30 and pick pay and go, and there are none to be had at pick a part Kilsyth. If anyone has some, or spots them at your local please let me know! Especially the rear passanger caliper - it's starting to make horrible noises!

Cheers,

D

yep, got one left side rear caliper, and front caliper. pads too.

they look pretty ordinary, but definitly work.

Im in Ringwood, work 2 km from Nissco, so I can leave them for ya with Randy for you to pickup one perfect day....

Unreal. Wont need the front (mine are Hilux) but the rear would be great. You can leave it with Randy or better yet, swing by the NDSOC show and shine this Sunday at Southbank. Ill be there all day.

Cheers

Drew

I first got this horrible grinding metal on metal noise about a year ago. I replaced pads (twice), put new kits in, did the wheel bearings, new anti-rattle springs... and so on, but still couldn't get rid of the damn noise. Finally I took the car to an engineer who simply grabbed hold of the handbrake cable, gave it a yank, and the caliper clunked - there was buckets of play. I tried replacing that caliper and sure enough the noise went away. I don't know if the same side let go as last time, but when you are dealing with a 30-year-old second-hand part these things are going to happen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...