Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car was purchased in April this year from Sydney and driven back to my home in Sippy Downs. Car has been garaged and well looked after. Serviced every 3,000km's with Motul Oil and Oil Filter. Car worked on by MW Performance on the Sunshine Coast.

PRICE DROP $21k - WILL TAKE ANY OFFER OVER 19,500 CASH IN HAND (with stock rims and no plates). Prepared to NEGOTIATE.

Would consider reducing price of car if performance mods were removed from vehicle. Happy to remove certain things to lower price.

Car has been run on BP ULTIMATE 98 Octane its entire life. -At present, car runs around 400-450km's per tank.

I welcome any questions and inspections on the car. You wont be dissapointed. Welcome to all reasonable O.N.O's - Reason for sale - Car is not used as often as i would like and is surplus to my needs. $22,000,Wont find a better price anywhere.

List of mods and prices of mods as follows:

Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller - $650

Apexi Power Intake Pod Filter - $89

Cold Air Induction Box - $150

Walbro 500hp 255Ltr Fuel Pump - $190

Whiteline Sway Bars, Front and Rear - $520

Cusco Rear Strut Brace - $210

Nismo Front Strut Brace - $100

Cusco Subframe Strut Brace - $150

Tien Super Street Coil Overs - $1680

Super Pro Subframe Bushes - $100

Hicas Lock Bar - $99

Full Tubro Back HKS Super Silent Exhaust with High Flow Cat - $1600

Splitfire Coil Packs - $529

Irridium Racing Plugs - $139

GREDDY timing belt

New Water Pump, Idler Bearings, Seals and pulleys. Includes new ancillary belts, 100,000km Service (done 30,000km's early) - $1,000+

Nismo Thermostat - $149

40mm Racing Radiator - $399

Cooling Pro Stealth Loop Kit Legal Intercooler - $550

XHP 18" Rims with 95% Federal Tyres - $1,900

Nismo front and Side Clear indicators - $110

B Pillar Strut Brace - Inside Car - $129

Alpine CD Player with 12" sub and 800watt amp - $600

Turbo Timer - Came with Car

Tinted Windows - $170

Nismo Gear Shifter. - $69

Link to images: http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...amp;distance=25

PM OR CALL/TEXT on 0401637722

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244621-r34-sportsshow-car-medium-mods-21k/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...