Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Ronin 09

Anyone had one fitted? What gains have you found? and how much would you expect it to cost?

cheers

I got a hks exhaust cam gear put on recently but with a whole bunch of other stuff so i couldnt tell u exactly how much ice charged me for it. Change your timing belt when u get it installed 2, if u already havent done so. We havent really played around with mine as yet because we are waiting for the new turb to go on. At the moment its set to -3 degrees i think.

(quick thread highjack)

SydneyKid - in your opinoin, is it worth while installing an adjustable exhaust cam gear when your still using the stock R33 GTS-t ECU ?

I think around -3 degrees is around the normal for the typical mods (boost/exhaust/FMIC). Does that sound right?

(/highjack off)

Hi Guys, for RB20 & RB26 we do both, commonly 1 degree advanced on the inlet and 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust. On RB25's with VVT, we only do exhaust with around 4 degrees retarded timing. We use Jun pulleys.

We have been finding lately that the good aftermarket camshafts actually don't benefit much from adjusting the camshaft timing. They are pretty much perfect with their "standard" timing. So if you are looking at doing camshafts (highly recommended on RB25's) don't bother doing pulleys.

I always recommend changing the ECU very early in the modification trail. Normally..........

1. turbo back exhaust

2. Upgrade fuel pump (on GTST's but not GTR's)

3. Boost up

4. Pod filter, heat shield & CAI

5. ECU

6. FMIC (on GTST's but not GTR's)

6. Turbo upgrade

7. Pulleys or camshafts (on GTST's, both on GTR's)

As you can see, pulleys are a fair way down the list.

Hope that makes sense

Sydneykid,

Should i spend $400 on the two pulleys? how much would appropriate cams on an rb20det with my setup cost? is it worth it?

Setup will include

RB20DET

Turbo Back Exaust

Custom plenum

PWR cooler

GTR injectors

Wolf 3d v4

Garrett GT28

Evan

Hi rb20-calais, used HKS 264's go for around $700, they work a treat in RB20's. As to whether they are worth it, well that really depends on your target power and what you are going to use the car for.

What I always suggest is to pick a power target and then match the components to that target. It is no good having a 220 rwkw turbo with a 330 rwkw intercooler, with 250 rwkw camshafts, with 200 rwkw injectors and a 290 rwkw fuel pump being stangled by a 170 rwkw exhaust.

Hope that helps lead to a conclusion

The problem I have had when modifying my car has been "at what point am I satisfied with the power". Its hard to know at what point, or hp, you will be satisfied with it as in the end you'll want more. And because you thought you'd be satisfied with the 320hp turbo, you'll find you will now have to sell it to buy the 450hp turbo, or the 550hp turbo and so it goes on. I'm not disagreeing with sydneykid, as I also believe you need to match as many parts to each other to get an overall excellent package, its just hard to know how much you want. I've got a turbo that will support 450-500hp, an intercooler that will support 500hp flow, but I find the turbo a little laggy and slow. I'm hoping with the new ecu and a HKS cam gear that will help the response. I may also look into the lightweight flywheel, lightweight pulleys (if anyone makes them) for better engine response and maybe some cams.

Also given time you get used to the power and generally want more :) I think that the best policy should be buy products with enough headroom should you want to upgrade to more power. ie: if I want more power now I just run more boost :) but I have to put other supports in place for that; ie pistons, bigger injectors. etc

Hi rob77, my answer was for an RB20DET in a Commondoor. An RB25DET in an R33 GTST is a totally different question.

Do you want to leave the internals of the engine standard or not!

If you do then answers are then very easy, everything needs to be set up for 450 bhp. Because that's the most you are going to reliably get out of an RB25DET with standard internals. So you use everything for that maximum, as you said if you don't want that much then turn the boost down. Simple.

If you want more than 450 bhp, then the question is again simple, how much money do you want to spend?

That's why RB engines are so great, there is enough information around to do whatever you want. You just have to ask the right questions.

Hope that clarifies

So back to the original question...

How much would it cost to have just the ex cam gear fitted and then set to -3 or -4 or whatever it is? (ie no dyno or ecu tuning).

No point getting an ex cam gear -yet- if its going to cost as much to get fitted as it will to buy it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...