Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30 Engine Block For Rb26 Conversion

leeroy_25

By leeroy_25,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

leeroy_25 Community Regular

leeroy_25

Posted
Posted

Hi there guys' Today I finally took delivery of my RB30 engine blocks from Australia! I am in the UK and have been interested to do the conversion for a while.. An opportunity came up so I took it.. After a lot of research and advise I was told the best block was the late non turbo block which would give a good compression ratio with the rb26 head and would also have the correct oil feed and returns already in the side ready to accept a turbo conversion. After much looking around Australia I tracked down a company with a couple of blocks and they said they were both the correct ones with the oil feeds etc.. However when they arrived today and I checked them out I found only one has the oil feed and returns in the side! Would I be correct to think this is not a major problem and I can just machine the holes in and tap them accordingly? Is there anything else the block will be missing that could be a problem or I need to be aware of?

Thank you in advance

Regards

Lee

P.S. i'll think i'll be visiting here a lot of the winter!

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

how many blocks did you get?

Yes you can machine them to suit turbo with no issues.

Hi there guys' Today I finally took delivery of my RB30 engine blocks from Australia! I am in the UK and have been interested to do the conversion for a while.. An opportunity came up so I took it.. After a lot of research and advise I was told the best block was the late non turbo block which would give a good compression ratio with the rb26 head and would also have the correct oil feed and returns already in the side ready to accept a turbo conversion. After much looking around Australia I tracked down a company with a couple of blocks and they said they were both the correct ones with the oil feeds etc.. However when they arrived today and I checked them out I found only one has the oil feed and returns in the side! Would I be correct to think this is not a major problem and I can just machine the holes in and tap them accordingly? Is there anything else the block will be missing that could be a problem or I need to be aware of?

Thank you in advance

Regards

Lee

P.S. i'll think i'll be visiting here a lot of the winter!

leeroy_25 Community Regular

leeroy_25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you there.. That is very good news indeed!! I thought that would be the case but figured I would check first!

I got two blocks.. one as a spare. I may sell it on once I have templated the holes into the other block! Is there anything else the block missing te oil feeds will be short on? Or is it all the same other than that?

Thanks again

Lee

leeroy_25 Community Regular

leeroy_25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Guys

The shippng was the biggest expense! Cost nearly £800! More than the blocks themselves!

R.I.P.S and some other dude on the UK forum came back and told me the blocks were scrap and no good for turbo applications.. then some other guy has told me hes has done a few like this! What's what?! Both the guy's that told me they are scrap normally sell blocks themselves!?

Personally I cannot see what can be that different.. as long as the pistons, rods, crank etc are the same and I can put the oil and water feeds and returns in then all should be okay right? I will also check the block front face is smooth above the pump is that was the first thing I looked at.. I assume worst case though I could also machine this area smooth?

Cheers Guys

Lee

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted

the flat spot for the lower tensioner is actually BELOW the water pump, i got mixed up and found out it was a s1 after i bought it. Ended up welding up the area and grinding it flat, engine is about to run in a couple of days now so ill see how it goes, shouldnt be a drama at all.

leeroy_25 Community Regular

leeroy_25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Would you be able to post a pic of the mod you did no the front of the block? I was aware that the smooth area needs to be below the water pump but I have had the cover off to check that yet.. sounds pretty much like I have a series 1 block though! Doh! Oh well.. where there is a will there is a way! Is there an option to put the tensioner somewhere different. I presume if you had to weld up the front face it's not just a case of it being a rough cast finish that needs machining.. but it is the wrong shape?

Cheers Guys.

So much more positive than feedback I have had elsewhere!

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

the oil/water feeds are easy to do, definately no worries there. Its just nice to have the stock holes already pre-tapped ready to go, but i wouldnt go throwing the blocks out just yet haha

have a read of the rb30 DOHC guide, it tells you everything you need to know and it has pictures to show you the mounting positions for the tensioner.

Edited by R34GTFOUR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...