Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive been quote around $300 :D ,cheapest on is $250.including peel the old films off.how much do you guys spend,and where u guys go tint ur skylines?(im in the north of melbourne).is there any reputable shops. some said $150 can get the job done,but ive been quote $300,been raped? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245383-tint-windows/
Share on other sites

I think it depends what sort of tint goes back on it etc.

I'm getting darkest legal done on mine at express tinting. They quoted me at like $300 i think. Forgot what sort of film they were putting on it.

I know a few others here used express tinting since i asked around before i decided to go with them. I haven't got mine done yet though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245383-tint-windows/#findComment-4268927
Share on other sites

There's a billboard I pass every day for a Solartint dealer that offers a free mobile service, full tint with lifetime warranty for $275.

However, if you have previous tint to remove there is sometimes a fair bit of labour involved in stripping it and cleaning the old glue so that will push the price up.

If you can get mates' rates $200 is achievable but I reckon anyone who charges you $150 for a tint when you walk in off the street is going to do a shithouse job.

Don't even consider getting a tint unless they offer a lifetime warranty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245383-tint-windows/#findComment-4268952
Share on other sites

those guys charge me $100 to remove the old tint,all of them have a lifetime warranty.solaris $300 carbon $300 sonic $350. when you guys tint your lines,did you remove the rear speaker cover,coz they ask me to remove it myself to save the labour.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245383-tint-windows/#findComment-4269278
Share on other sites

all done,send my car to mr tinting today,remove and retint $275.all work done in 3 hours,nothing been remove.but its just too smell of the Windex,cant open window for 2days.when i drive car back home,it was like suffocated to death,but guys did a good job

Edited by whitegt33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245383-tint-windows/#findComment-4271893
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...