Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

i have recently found that there is a misfire in my r33 gts-t at about 6500rpm under load in first gear runing at 6psi

when i run it at 10psi the problem gets worse and does it at about 4000, then 5000 then 6000 rpm.

it feels very similar to when you hit the rev limiter only you feel it the once.

the only mods are k&n pod filter with cai, turbo smart boost controler (swichable) and i have only just put a full 3'' exhaust on this week.

anyone know what this problem could be or any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/
Share on other sites

ok Robo ive done the search and what u say about the safc sounds good. but if the fuel dumping is my problem could this be fixed by simply turning the boost down?

how much would it cost me for a safc and a good tune?

i do want to put in an apexi power fc in my car soon, so would i be wasting my time and money buying the safc? also my car is an auto so i dont know if i can use an apexi power fc?????????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/#findComment-524723
Share on other sites

i have the exact same prob and so do 2 of my other mates. i am getting mine fixed atm and one of my other mates has just had his done. it has to do with the coil packs being stuffed/cracked. the cover that is over the top of the coil packs in the 33's isnt exactly the best when it comes to ventilation of heat. i am getting bosch coil packs put in. and i run with the cover off in the mean time. the bosch packs don't fit under the factory cover, so they get mounted externally of the cover and are alot cheaper. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/#findComment-524850
Share on other sites

robo

thanks for the info. i turned my boost down to 6 psi and the problem isnt as bad, but it is still there. it missfires at 6500 rpm, just before gear change. if it still does it with the boost down to 6psi this leads me to think it may be something else because its only just started to do it also.(within the last week)

or do you think i should just get a safc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/#findComment-526296
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...