Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Recommended Posts

Are you talking about turbos on identical engine types because if not then capacity and rpm's and so forth would also play a great roll. Like, for example, the GT35 and T04z function a lot better on stroked Rb26's as they have higher capacity.......close capacity to the 3.0L on which they're meant to run very well on.

I think you also mean: "you could get a properly setup T04z making power nearly as early as a poorly setup GT35...." ????

(the GT35 is smaller than the T04z).

But yeh, I think you could add the size and shape of your intercooler piping and core to the list as well. The more corners and restrictions you have in the how intercooler system from start to finish, the more lag you will have although this would only be very noticeable when you compare the BEST design (similar to V mount) to the absolute WORST design out there!!!

Dump pipe / elbow piece etc behind the turbo would also contribute I guess.

Induction system into turbo inlet.....hi-flow filter vs factory paper element filter etc. Oh, and if you have some cold air or not....partition/cold air box and snorkle etc.

That's just some things I can think off... ;-)

To add to the mix in this thread, I'm going with a GT3040/76r on my stock-stroke GTR. I'm chasing good response and power but am not using twins. I've been wanting to go with a GT35 or T04z for a long time but I want to keep the response.....not to mention that, with the bigger turbos you'd want to be using external gates which don't fall under any of the mod plate codes (something which is a must these days, especially when you drive your car to the track) If I weren't so concerned about the legal side of things (having been to court and all) I'd be going for a nice GT35 setup.

you can get an internally gated rear housing for a 35.

i wouldn't put a 3076 on an rb26

Ok I've posted this on gtr.co.uk as well, but does anyone know where I can find a T4 split pulse 0.86 rear housing for a GT35??

I don't really care where I have to get it in from.

From all the research I can find, this should be the best compromise between top end and response.

Edited by Brockaz

I dont have my laptop with me right now but when I emailed fullrace a few weeks back I'm fairly sure they offered me a t4 .8x ts exh housing to suit my gt35.

Btw you guys are all still neglecting the fact that my boost curve is piss poor, its not a good comparison against a t04z in the mid-range.

Drifter,

Ah I see. Could you perhaps send me a link to where I could get an internally gated GT35 from? If I could get one then I would seeing that with the 3071 I'd be limiting myself to around 400-450hp or there abouts.

From memory it was up to a GT3240 that you could get internal gate rear housings BUT please, do send me a link to a reliable place to get the internally gated 35 from.

Just out of curiosity, what are your reasons for not putting a GT3071/79 on a stock RB26? They're very popular with the RB25 people and I'm thinking if you bolted the largest one of these up you'd have insane response, probably even better response than with a set of twins......and......if you went for a large rear A/R from 0.82 upwards you should be quite right with flow in top gear down the straight ;-)

....please advise.

Cheers,

Tom

http://www.gcg.com.au/turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=28

(here is the internally gated GT35)

I don't think there would be nothing wrong with throwing a GT30 on an RB26. Would be very responsive.

I have just recently taken off an Apexi IHI RX-6 TCW77P25 single turbo off my RB26 (it's rated to 500hp if I recall) it is a small turbine, the rear and outlet looks almost T25. lol I ran 290 aw kw all day every day 18psi with insane response. It done 11.5 @ 124mph and was very quick around QR. I think a GT30 is a good option for someone who won't ever want the 350kw+ power levels...

I am all for sizing your turbo for what you want. Don't go too big for your needs... :P

Same thing with the T04Z. Would only get it if I wanted and needed over 400kw...

Michael

The GT35 is physically a smaller turbo. It will spool quicker than a T04Z, unless the fabled Z somehow defies the laws of physics. Considering my car is primarily driven on the track, that's exactly what I need.

same here :P

Drifter and Michael,

You wouldn't be referring to the GT3540r's that they use on the latest turbo'd falcons? Yes your right Michael I don't want to go for insane horses - I'd rather spend some money on cooling and tyres and suspension once I'm done with the turbo/fuel system upgrade. I'm not planning to pour thousand into the motor to make it go faster and faster - won't help me much at QR if I don't look into some suspension and brake upgrades! I'd probably fly off the first corner after hitting insane speeds with my 800hp!

I'm thinking that because the GTST boys have such good results with the GT30's that a 100cc more for a 2.6L won't render the turbo unusable. You'd just have to make sure that you pick a larger rear housing so that you still have good flow and low back pressure when you're screaming along in 5th ;-) (or 6th for you Michael lol)

Tom

Not even 100cc difference, it is more along the lines of ~60cc.

The 3076R would hardly be a bottle neck even with big revs with a .82 rear housing they are good for ~300kw at the wheels, what would be interesting would be a comparison with a 3076R vs 2x 2860-7's (or N1's) both setups being good for very similar power.

hah not at all champ, besides, at least I still have my GT-R.

The GT35 is physically a smaller turbo. It will spool quicker than a T04Z, unless the fabled Z somehow defies the laws of physics. Considering my car is primarily driven on the track, that's exactly what I need.

technology > physics :D

only time will tell hey!!!

it will be good if u can get yours tuned at x-speed so we can overlay the graphs for a direct comparison

The 3076R would hardly be a bottle neck even with big revs with a .82 rear housing they are good for ~300kw at the wheels, what would be interesting would be a comparison with a 3076R vs 2x 2860-7's (or N1's) both setups being good for very similar power.

x2, now all we need is someone with gay low mounts to do the right thing and upgrade

LOL I'll be taking my gay low mounts out soon haha!

Yeh it should be interesting. I'm not aiming for too much power as I want to go to the track regularily with a reliable HP figure....something that can be driven all day every day without over-straining the 13 y/o car.

TiTAN, yes, correct - it is only around 60cc which is jack all really.

I look forward to sharing the results with you. I'm looking at a good all rounder...something that reflects the GTR's original design intent.

You see, I race at QR as well and I had the pleasure of taking a stock GTR out onto the track from which I then gathered that I need more:

- Power on the straight as that is where some of the quick cars caught me again

- Even better braking power at the end of the straight so that you don't end up circumnavigating the globe

- Some better suspension to get rid of some of that roll and bring the car a bit closer to earth

- ......and better oil cooling - the factory system is pathetic.

So yeh, those are some things just from the top of my head. I want to hit all them things rather than just all out power ;-)

Edited by tommis85
technology > physics

Exactly! People seem to think the T04Z is a new fancy pants thing, HKS have done a GREAT job with them and Garrett dealers have done well off the back of it. Before the "HKS T04Z" there were people around running the "Ball Bearing T67" but now suddenly all the Garrett guys call them "T04Z" and drill nice holes in the compressor cover to try and make them a bit more like the HKS T67. I mean T04R. I mean T04Z. Its a dinosaur turbo with not so dinosaur bearings, the GT3582R is a proper GT-series turbo... it has the superior aerodynamics, the same core technology, and the smaller wheels. There is no way the T04Z is going to match its response in an all things being equal situation.

The T04Z is a dinosaur turbo with not so dinosaur bearings, the GT3582R is a proper GT-series turbo... it has the superior aerodynamics, the same core technology, and the smaller wheels. There is no way the GT3582R is going to match its response in an all things being equal situation.

Wait, what?

So because the GT35 has superior aerodynamics, the same core tech, and smaller wheels, it's going to be lazier than a T04Z? Come again?

Exactly! People seem to think the T04Z is a new fancy pants thing, HKS have done a GREAT job with them and Garrett dealers have done well off the back of it. Before the "HKS T04Z" there were people around running the "Ball Bearing T67" but now suddenly all the Garrett guys call them "T04Z" and drill nice holes in the compressor cover to try and make them a bit more like the HKS T67. I mean T04R. I mean T04Z. Its a dinosaur turbo with not so dinosaur bearings, the GT3582R is a proper GT-series turbo... it has the superior aerodynamics, the same core technology, and the smaller wheels. There is no way the GT3582R is going to match its response in an all things being equal situation.

no more saki for u!

yes well. ask a few of the people who have a t04z on an xr6 turbo :) the differance is marginal at worst. just 100kw atw differance.

anyway........ do you want smooth power delivery, or do you want it to be abit more fun with more power that doesnt fall over at 8k.

I dont have my laptop with me right now but when I emailed fullrace a few weeks back I'm fairly sure they offered me a t4 .8x ts exh housing to suit my gt35.

Btw you guys are all still neglecting the fact that my boost curve is piss poor, its not a good comparison against a t04z in the mid-range.

sorry, fr actually offered a 1.06 ts t4 exh housing to suit the gt35

yes well. ask a few of the people who have a t04z on an xr6 turbo :) the differance is marginal at worst. just 100kw atw differance.

anyway........ do you want smooth power delivery, or do you want it to be abit more fun with more power that doesnt fall over at 8k.

Are you comparing the xr6 gt35r? A ran one of those before switching to a proper gt35r and was roughly 100kw down on where I am now.....

Edited by DCIEVE
LOL I'll be taking my gay low mounts out soon haha!

Yeh it should be interesting. I'm not aiming for too much power as I want to go to the track regularily with a reliable HP figure....something that can be driven all day every day without over-straining the 13 y/o car.

TiTAN, yes, correct - it is only around 60cc which is jack all really.

I look forward to sharing the results with you. I'm looking at a good all rounder...something that reflects the GTR's original design intent.

You see, I race at QR as well and I had the pleasure of taking a stock GTR out onto the track from which I then gathered that I need more:

- Power on the straight as that is where some of the quick cars caught me again

- Even better braking power at the end of the straight so that you don't end up circumnavigating the globe

- Some better suspension to get rid of some of that roll and bring the car a bit closer to earth

- ......and better oil cooling - the factory system is pathetic.

So yeh, those are some things just from the top of my head. I want to hit all them things rather than just all out power ;-)

just seams like fair bit of money for not much gain. a 3076 is not going to flow much more than the stockers, wouldn't it be cheaper to put some n1's on it? surely a 3082 would be a minimum for a single don't you think? after driving my own setup, i wouldn't go smaller than a 3582, because it has the same response as the stock turbos and potential for 350-400 rwkw.

P.S this is just my opinion, feel free to disagree.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...