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hi guys

Just doing a bit of research on the 'Genuine' Nissan part.

the GTR key, obviously is uncut when purchase but also does not include

the "transponder" can anyone tell me more about it? most cars have a "lock" and "unlock" button on it. but on this genuine key, i don't see any buttons.

whats this transponder do?

thanks guys

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If you're running a stock ecu, you will need to take the key to Nissan and have them update your new key to start the car.

But having a full aftermarket ecu, you wont need to have the key hard coded.

so in other words id the ecu is aftermarket, you don't need a key with the transponder. and the stock ecu from the factory has set it with the ecu.

well in that case, doesn't that make the factory ecu and the genuine transponder key more safe from theft?

so in other words id the ecu is aftermarket, you don't need a key with the transponder. and the stock ecu from the factory has set it with the ecu.

well in that case, doesn't that make the factory ecu and the genuine transponder key more safe from theft?

that is true.

the stock NATS module and the stock ECU work together to immobilize the car,

putting in an after market ecu means this is disrupted.

what isn't clear to me is if someone walks up to a stock car with a power-fc under

their arm, and no coded ignition key, if factory NATS is really rendered useless or

still can immobilize the car.

that is true.

the stock NATS module and the stock ECU work together to immobilize the car,

putting in an after market ecu means this is disrupted.

what isn't clear to me is if someone walks up to a stock car with a power-fc under

their arm, and no coded ignition key, if factory NATS is really rendered useless or

still can immobilize the car.

thats a good question...

ur guess is as good as mine.

but my beleif is that, no matter how good your car is secured. there may still be ways to hack into it.

even cars with satelite tracking. im sure there is still ways.

im thinking maybe security code pads like the one they have in late model WRXs are a good security option.

hi guys

Just doing a bit of research on the 'Genuine' Nissan part.

the GTR key, obviously is uncut when purchase but also does not include

the "transponder" can anyone tell me more about it? most cars have a "lock" and "unlock" button on it. but on this genuine key, i don't see any buttons.

whats this transponder do?

thanks guys

Have you bought one yet :P

  • 2 weeks later...

When you insert your key on a JDM R34, your car does two things -- it checks the ECU, and it checks the key, and makes sure they were both registered together with the system. It only allows the fuel to flow if both match.

An aftermarket ECU will respond in a generic fashion that always passes.

However, if you put a different stock ECU in the car than the keys were originally encoded under, your keys will have to be recoded to match.

I found this out when I purchased my car with only a single key and an Apexi Power FC. I was able to obtain two keys (with chips inside, dubbed 'master' keys in Nissan lingo) and cut them, but the dealer could not program them because the consult 2 does not talk with a non-factory ECU.

When I obtained a factory ECU that I bought from a private seller, and I swapped it in, the original, working key failed to work anymore. That key was not programmed with *that* factory ECU, and thus, I had no keys that would work at all. I had to drive the car to the dealer on the Apexi, swap in the factory ECU there, and then program all three keys.

Once they were programmed and working, I could swap out the factory ECU for the Apexi and all three keys continued to work.

-D

When you insert your key on a JDM R34, your car does two things -- it checks the ECU, and it checks the key, and makes sure they were both registered together with the system. It only allows the fuel to flow if both match.

An aftermarket ECU will respond in a generic fashion that always passes.

However, if you put a different stock ECU in the car than the keys were originally encoded under, your keys will have to be recoded to match.

I found this out when I purchased my car with only a single key and an Apexi Power FC. I was able to obtain two keys (with chips inside, dubbed 'master' keys in Nissan lingo) and cut them, but the dealer could not program them because the consult 2 does not talk with a non-factory ECU.

When I obtained a factory ECU that I bought from a private seller, and I swapped it in, the original, working key failed to work anymore. That key was not programmed with *that* factory ECU, and thus, I had no keys that would work at all. I had to drive the car to the dealer on the Apexi, swap in the factory ECU there, and then program all three keys.

Once they were programmed and working, I could swap out the factory ECU for the Apexi and all three keys continued to work.

-D

i see

why dont you like the apexi power fx?

is there anything wrong with them?

i suppose any nissan dealer has the consult 2 to do this if i was to buy a new JDM genuine key?

I like it fine -- I only obtained the factory ECU so I could program additional keys. I didn't want to be running with just a single working key. Also, my car is unmodified, so I did leave the factory one in for the moment, but as mods get done, my tuner is fine with the Power FC being the ECU to go to. They are experienced with it.

As far as the dealer, they needed a Consult with a NATS 2.0 or higher card, I believe they told me.

Edited by Danox
I like it fine -- I only obtained the factory ECU so I could program additional keys. I didn't want to be running with just a single working key. Also, my car is unmodified, so I did leave the factory one in for the moment, but as mods get done, my tuner is fine with the Power FC being the ECU to go to. They are experienced with it.

As far as the dealer, they needed a Consult with a NATS 2.0 or higher card, I believe they told me.

so thats something to watch out for on the r34 gtr...

if it has an aftermarket ecu and 1 key only..................

when purchasing the car...also keep in mind to allow a price on buying a genuine ECU to program some extra keys

i beleive thats what your trying to tell me?

That is accurate. You'll need a factory ECU of some type if you wish to program any additional keys. In addition, I was told by someone in the USA that they swapped a 00 V-Spec ECU into a 2002 NUR car and the NATS versions were incompatible, so you'll need likely a specific ECU.

I was able to type my chassis number into FAST and find out what ECUs were compatible and just made sure I got one of those.

That is accurate. You'll need a factory ECU of some type if you wish to program any additional keys. In addition, I was told by someone in the USA that they swapped a 00 V-Spec ECU into a 2002 NUR car and the NATS versions were incompatible, so you'll need likely a specific ECU.

I was able to type my chassis number into FAST and find out what ECUs were compatible and just made sure I got one of those.

I don't think it is any big deal to bypass the factory immobilizer.

My 2001 r34 has the same immobilizer and it is totally bypassed by the after-market

alarm. I even opened the steering column and pulled out the connector to the nats unit,

the dash red led went out of course, but the car still started and ran. And of course

you can plug in MINES or power-fc ECUs, and any r34 still starts.

There is only a single wire linking the ECU to the NAT and I'm not even sure that the

stock ECU needs a "yes" signal from that wire - the communication may be in the other

direction only (ecu tells nat module a serial number).

The NAT version used in the last of the r34s was pretty basic, the later versions

in more modern nissans talk to a "body control" unit which allowed them more

extensive control.

so if you have a good alarm, get the nats unit bypassed, and that is the end of that.

An auto electrician can do that by looking at the NAT chapter of the workshop manual,

the circuit is all laid out there.

You can then cut any keys you want.

I don't think it is any big deal to bypass the factory immobilizer.

My 2001 r34 has the same immobilizer and it is totally bypassed by the after-market

alarm. I even opened the steering column and pulled out the connector to the nats unit,

the dash red led went out of course, but the car still started and ran. And of course

you can plug in MINES or power-fc ECUs, and any r34 still starts.

There is only a single wire linking the ECU to the NAT and I'm not even sure that the

stock ECU needs a "yes" signal from that wire - the communication may be in the other

direction only (ecu tells nat module a serial number).

The NAT version used in the last of the r34s was pretty basic, the later versions

in more modern nissans talk to a "body control" unit which allowed them more

extensive control.

so if you have a good alarm, get the nats unit bypassed, and that is the end of that.

An auto electrician can do that by looking at the NAT chapter of the workshop manual,

the circuit is all laid out there.

You can then cut any keys you want.

dude, you sound like u know what ur talking about.....

im saving u on friends list so when i get my GTR soon ..i know who to ask if i got the issue with keys....

also do you have the workshop manual for GTR R34? not the dodgy R34 GT-T or GT manual thats posted all over the bloody web...........

I don't know anything that wasn't told me by others here more knowledgeable!

but the r34 workshop manual and (importantly) SUPPLEMENT which covers GTR

are at scribd.com. They aren't great, they are far less detailed than (say) a USA

manual for a nissan maxima, but they are a lot better than nothing.

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