Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok

Cut a long story short, im having problems with my R34 at about 4800rpm+ it starts to stutter and break down.

now ive read this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

pulled out my coils etc most of them were arked etc so i replaced them with a new set

now i did this on friday and it was ok for the day now it's doing it again it currently has platinum plugs and for some reason i think the mechanic gapped them at 1.2 :S now that seems a lil big, can any-1 confirm if they should be at about 0.8 and could that cause the break ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246886-r34-break-down-problem/
Share on other sites

well at 0.8 now :) still doing it, should i try and chang the plugs ?

running out of idea's what it could possible be , dunno if this helps but it's running FMIC, turbo back exhaust, KKR430, super spark coils (car has done this be4 these mods were done) and sometimes like ill be cruising in say 3rd you can here it sort of miss type of sound and can feel/hear it, on idle some times it will miss and back fire sometimes between gear changes

yeah have done a purge (think that's how it spelt) some-1 said possible fuel pump ? but then i dont know why it wouldn't do it some times but other times it would ? could it be the ECU ? it's hard to explain it over the net :) today i poped into town then got back to my car turned it on started to idle drop revs pick them up again etc :S then i drove and it stopped it

Edited by ian_and1

ok now if i drive the car dont floor it just slowly incrase my speed the tacho goes all the way up to 8000RPM, but as soon as i boot it, it does it again ? fuel pump or something to do with the fuel line maybe ? it's going on the dyno next week to see WTF it's doing :D also changing plugs over the w/e

What are super spark coils???? Why are so many people just not getting 'tried and tested' Splitfires? They're not even expensive anymore and work no questions asked.

You've defiantely got a missfire there, what you're explaining I can only achieve with moisture in the cam valley....or when I didn't have splitfires.

What are super spark coils???? Why are so many people just not getting 'tried and tested' Splitfires? They're not even expensive anymore and work no questions asked.

You've defiantely got a missfire there, what you're explaining I can only achieve with moisture in the cam valley....or when I didn't have splitfires.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Su...ks-t228296.html

http://www.superspark.com.au/

didn't want split fires, all i wanted was a cheap replacement coil wasn't at looking at getting a high performance set. also another thing is that super sprak offer 60 day warrenty

you have'nt given the most important infor - do you get an emgine warning lite and the code it is flashing or not?

if its coils or ecu you would get the code flashing

problems like you describe unless related to loose connections would point to air or fuel not in correct ratio at high revs when booted hard obly as you say a slow rev up is OK - so make sensible guesses as to why the ratio is wrong at high boot up (e.g. fuel pump cannot deliver enough fuel quickly - blocked, worn , and maybe filter clogged etc)

and read the R34 Manual if necessary

you have'nt given the most important infor - do you get an emgine warning lite and the code it is flashing or not?

if its coils or ecu you would get the code flashing

problems like you describe unless related to loose connections would point to air or fuel not in correct ratio at high revs when booted hard obly as you say a slow rev up is OK - so make sensible guesses as to why the ratio is wrong at high boot up (e.g. fuel pump cannot deliver enough fuel quickly - blocked, worn , and maybe filter clogged etc)

and read the R34 Manual if necessary

no engine warning light does not come on, im starting to think that it is fuel related under load

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...