Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello, i drive a 1993 R33 GTS automatic, and i jst wanted to find out about a small problem i have. whenever i put my foot down a bit on the pedal to accelerate it lags then speeds up after like, a second, then kicks in. on first gear it revs to about 6000 rpm then changes gears and i found that a bit much. second and third do the same and change at high revs.

i asked a mechanic what was up with that and to just check it, and he said he changed this on the front of the engine block (srry im not that great under the hood) *refer to pic* from the top line (original way) to the bottom line (what he changed it to). it seemed to do nothing, if anything make it a little worse.

after that, at times when i turn on the car it idles at aroud 1000 rpm, then after a while idling it drops a little, stays down a bit then goes up after a while back to 1000 rpm. if anyone has any ideas on whats wrong please let me know, i dont really like the lag when i speed up. my mums vr commodore speeds up way better than mine lol

thanks

post-44558-1227949538_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246911-r33-automatic-acceleration-lag/
Share on other sites

....aka. crank angle sensor (CAS)

Go back to your mechanic and ask what he set the timing at...think the RB25DE should have a base timing of 15degrees.

hello, i drive a 1993 R33 GTS automatic, and i jst wanted to find out about a small problem i have. whenever i put my foot down a bit on the pedal to accelerate it lags then speeds up after like, a second, then kicks in. on first gear it revs to about 6000 rpm then changes gears and i found that a bit much. second and third do the same and change at high revs.

There's your problem there >_<

The stock auto trans are slow and do take a sec to change gears. Try having the O/D button OFF...that should help reduce your 'acceleration lag', also it will rev out higher. For quicker gear changes get an upgraded valve body/ shift kit...do search in the Group Buy section if you want more details. Also ~6K+ rpm before changing gears sounds normally if you have ya foot planted; or do you mean it will only change gears when you rev to 6K rpm?

I think thats normal. My auto R33 does something similar.

Although I have never really floored it from 1st gear, what I found was that if I was driving along at 60km/h (auto is in 3rd gear) then I floor it to over take a truck, it won't accelerate hard right away, rather it will shift down a gear to 2nd, which takes a second or so then accelerate hard.

So there is that 1 sec lag or so...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...