Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This was to do with a topic i posted earlier where my HICAS light came on after after short trips

and this caused my steering to become heavy (see HICAS LIGHT +HEAVY STEERING)

Ive just run plugged in the standard ECU and run a diagnostic system check

ps:diagnostic computer will not communicate with aftermarket ECU

The readout from HICAS was - 25 Engine Rev abnormal signal

Does anyone know what this means?? Would it be to do with reverse (speed sensor) on speedo/gearbox

The error code i chased up on this site for HICAS diagnostic Codes 1993-1999

and came up with: 25 Rear sub sensor input not present

would this be the smaller of the two sensors to the right of the HICAS motor

i guess the sensor or plug could be faulty??

Anyone had the same problem?? or any suggestions on what i need to do??

Thanks for everyones input! :P

Edited by GTST R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/
Share on other sites

if you had heavy steering it is not a problem with a sensor mate as the power steering is not electronically controlled. only the hicas is but it is fed from the same power steering hydraulic pump. i would be checking the power steering fluid level and check if the fan belt is tight etc before checking computer stuff. if the belt is tight (able to push the side in about 10mm,~6mm with gates racing belts) and there is plenty of fluid your pump might have a shot seal etc... i highly doubt it will be a sensor playing up as i said before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/#findComment-4303325
Share on other sites

How do you think the speed sensitive variable assist power steering works then?

Electrical solenoid on the steering rack actuated with a varying pwm signal. Electronically controlled.

I believe it is an electrical problem to do with the signal for the HICAS

after runned a scan i was given the error code above im just not sure what i need to do to fix the problem

would completely removing the HICAS system & added a HICAS lock possibly eliminate the problems im having??

i was hoping someone else may have had the same problem and was able to point me in the right direction

or advise me of somewhere i can take the car in Adelaide to get this sorted??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/#findComment-4304858
Share on other sites

I don't know enough about the wiring system in the 33 to be a lot of help, I have the complete wiring set for the 32 though and have had to repair quite a lot to get the hicas and power steering working properly on my car. If you can lay your hands on a copy of the 33 schematics that would be great, but I haven't seen any about as of yet.

If the diagnostic threw out engine rev as a fault then i'd be making sure that the engine speed signal was getting to the hicas module. I wouldn't assume that the 25 the diag unit spat out is the same as the 25 listed for the hicas fault, unless you know better..

If you do a diagnostic with the turn steering wheel x times drive forward crap what fault code do you get coming up then?

Removing hicas and locking it out won't fix the steering issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/#findComment-4304932
Share on other sites

if you had heavy steering it is not a problem with a sensor mate as the power steering is not electronically controlled. only the hicas is but it is fed from the same power steering hydraulic pump. i would be checking the power steering fluid level and check if the fan belt is tight etc before checking computer stuff. if the belt is tight (able to push the side in about 10mm,~6mm with gates racing belts) and there is plenty of fluid your pump might have a shot seal etc... i highly doubt it will be a sensor playing up as i said before.

the Hicas is infact 'electronic'......... .. ..

Look I've had the same issue for a while now, we have confirmed, all power steering mechanical and hydrolic elements are working properly. The issue is intermittent like yours aswell, (light on + steering heavy), and it also does it now and then.

I have been searching these forums for my old thread, but have been unable to find it.

Ive made numerous phone calls, spoken to all types of work shops, on this matter. Including a fair few suspension specialists. and No one has any idea of the cause, and no one has nessesary tools or equipment to diagnose hicas issues. Our only hope may be in Japan.

If you find anyone in australia who does please let me know. As I would like to keep my hicas working.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/#findComment-4306481
Share on other sites

If the light comes on, there will be a fault listed. What do you have coming up when you do the hicas diagnostic? These cars might seem it at first glance, but they aren't all that complicated.. Just need to know the right way to approach the problem.

I've managed to get my power steering, hicas, and 4wd all working again when the monkeys that had the car previously were masters of the twitch and tape method of installing.. with wrong wires..

At one point I had nutted out the waveforms for the solenoid control and was going to build a module to do the conversion from speed to power steering solenoid driver but worked out how to fix mine before I had gotten that far.. would be the ideal solution for those that want to remove and lock out hicas but still have good power steering.

Edited by heller44
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/#findComment-4306507
Share on other sites

Currently i have someone looking at my HICAS & hope to narrow the problem with more diagnostic checks

the power steering pump and hoses/fluid have been checked and im quiet sure its an electrical fault, for some reason the signal from the speed sensor isnt giving the correct signal, the angle sensors have been checked and seem to be in working order, once the light is off i can start the car as many times as i like and the light will stay off & its only after i move the car and then restart then the light comes on. Its becoming very frustrating as i dont know of any experts in this field and im believe the problem could be fixed easily using a process of elimination to find a fault. Im going to clean all the contacts thoroughly to see if a poor contact could be to blame.

If anyone has had or fixed this problem or has any input it would be greatly appreaciated :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/#findComment-4313070
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
Currently i have someone looking at my HICAS & hope to narrow the problem with more diagnostic checks

Can you keep me in the loop and tell me what they find, I have the same problem. It's extremely frustrating!

Thanks!

- Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247776-hicas-diagnosis/#findComment-4551627
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...