Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.... so i have had my car back for only a week or so... r33 s1 with all bolt on mods.. everything was fine until last night i went for a spin and in 2nd there is a problem... il try describe... basically what happens is once i start full boosting at about 4500rpm (15 pound) a milli second after this back fire occurs..but its not a back fire.. or a mis fire.. it sound like a bunch of air getting dumped somwhere and i loose a few psi but then regain it straight after..its like a backfire but with boost... i tried lowering the gain and boost on my profec b ebc but still the problem occours... but only in second.. all the other gears rev out perfect.. i thought it may have somethin to do with my ext. gate... but what could it be.. all gaskets are perfect.. the gate is not old at all.. like not even 5000kms could anyone please try throw some suggestions i would be very greatful for any input.. in terms of boost i have a t04e, ext. gate, greddy profec b...so yeah.. maybe a tuning issue... but it didnt do it until last night.. plus i have just put in new coilpacks aswell brand new... so that cant be it either.. i hope not..

thanks guys..

alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247869-r33-problem-in-2nd/
Share on other sites

what ecu? turn the boost way down until you get it fixed

if stock ecu -> you need a stand alone

if aftermarket -> look at getting in retuned, keep boost way down until you fix it

sounds like its detonating

what ecu? turn the boost way down until you get it fixed

if stock ecu -> you need a stand alone

if aftermarket -> look at getting in retuned, keep boost way down until you fix it

sounds like its detonating

i have a microtech lt12s... it got tuned like a week ago... and now i took it for a spin today and it didnt do it at all.. like perfect... when you say detonating... its not like pinging or anything like that... so what would be detonating?? car isnt blowing any smoke, not using any oil... so engine is healthy... when it did it , it almost feels like a cooler pipe popping off then being put back on in a second if ya know.....BLOOODY SKYLINE!!!!!!! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!! I JUST REDID EVERYTHING ND NOW THIS.... FARK!!!!

thanks for your reply man..

i would check all ur cooler hose clamps just make sure everything is done up firm, nothing loose

i just put on big truck clamps and new silicon joins...absolutely no leaks what so ever... hmmm.. this one has me stumped.. it sometimes does it and other times doesnt... hmmm... it always seems to do it though if i pump 1st and into second...then it does it at about 5000rpm..... AAARRRGGGG!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...