Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is Chasers on Dynon Rd, that you mean?

I had my R33 tuned there - PFC, Z32 AFM, HKS2535GT on HKS EZ-II boost controller. Made 230rwkw - only came short due to needing splitfire coil packs and recommended S15 JDM injectors.. which I didn't managed to perform as I decided to sell the car.

If the tuner/dyno guy, Paul, is still there, worth to get him spend some time on your car. He's a good tuner with extensive Motec experience. So if you decided to go to Motec, you definitely can bring your car there for a tuneup! Price is alright, I reckon. About $70/hr 2-3 yrs ago, not sure now.

  • Like 1

I got my car tuned there too... the good thing about Chasers is that they will also work with you to achieve the results you want... e.g. I wanted good mid-range power, good response and an overall daily driver kinda tune - they helped me achieve this and will also give you tips on how to get what you want out of your ride. I highly recommend them. All the guys there are good people.

+1 for Paul and the whole crew there at Chasers. They all race their own cars at the track so they have good extensive knowledge of all aspects of building a car - from a ground-up engine job to suspension overhaul to straight wiring and tuning.

Might have to get in early for next year tho as they're not taking anymore jobs this year.

Oh, and they also just installed a 4wd dyno couple weeks ago so they can now cater for that market too.

good luck mate :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...