Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking on the net for some sort of legislation for modifications etc. Does anyone know where it could be found ?

So have I. I'm looking at bringing a car up from NSW which has a fmic, pod filter, etc... but its been done with no expense spared and very professionally by the current owner, and I'm unsure as to whether to buy it or not in case I have rip all the stuff out simply to be able to register it. The Qld Transport link in one of the posts above doesn't quite answer it, also theres all this talk about only being allowed one intake mod etc... so its all very confusing. Is there someone somewhere in Qld in some official capacity who actually knows the answers to all this ?

NEVER heard of that before. I don't beleive it to be true either.

As mentioned, pods have to be firmly secured by a bracket (zip ties arnt safe apparently). You do not need a heat shield for pods in QLD however its better for you to have one as youll get lower intake temps.

BOVs have to be plumbed back. You are allowed dual ports as long as one side is plumb back and it is set to that on the street. Despite common beleif they arn't illegal due to emissions but rather making unessecary noise.

Any questions you can call the Queensland Transport modifications line on 3253 4851

Well I've just re read this whole thread, and found the number listed above. I called them and they were spot on, seemed to be able to answer every question. So if anyone else is in my situation, simply call this number and they'll 'give you the good oil' so to speak ..........

  • 1 year later...

Hate to dig up an old post but it seems the law is a prick of a thing when it comes to emmisions. My rb20 has 230kw and was just wondering if the remapped ecu/ bigger injectors/ boost controller are legal to have. I know the pod I have with the front mount attracts some attention so I will chase down a standard box.

Hate to dig up an old post but it seems the law is a prick of a thing when it comes to emmisions. My rb20 has 230kw and was just wondering if the remapped ecu/ bigger injectors/ boost controller are legal to have. I know the pod I have with the front mount attracts some attention so I will chase down a standard box.

They could technically pull you up for some of these things but without the ability to actually test your car (compared with other states) it is not too bad here in Queensland.

ECU, Injectors and boost controller are a few things that you can probably get away with as they can be hidden completely.

thanks alot :). I currently have a greddy pro b spec 2 controller mounted inside my ash tray and the original ecu is simply remapped so looks stock. I'm using a stock fuel rail so its hard to make out any difference in injectors (if you don't know what to look for). so i think i should be pretty safe ATM i will just have to take my chance when i do a better build on the car and only drive it once a week and hope i don't attract any attention. if i go driving with a friend who has a HQ one toner with a 545 big block im pretty sure he will take most the heat anyway :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...