Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seeing as there is a great deal of knowledge on here I may get some fresh ideas ;)

Ever since fitting my FMIC ive been having missfire issues.

Originally I gapped my plugs down a bit and seemed to make it a bit better so though it was coil packs playing up so went to new plugs and a wasted spark kit.

Went out today for a long run to see when it does it so here goes :

Idle is fine

Low rpm is worst but no proble if very light throttle

Mid range is almost ok but full throttle causes a slight misfire vibration

High rpm is the best but can still tell its there slightly on full throttle

Here are my rr graphs on another topic :

Graphs

That was done with the FMIC fitted. The only thing that has been changed since those graphs is the wasted spark kit and plugs.

Is it possible the overfuelling is causing the issue ?

:P:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248712-odd-misfire/
Share on other sites

Okay Mate.. i just installed my new 7" TFT Touch screen in my car and i am in a good mood so here is my input.....

Your car is hitting R&R.. This is called Rich & Retarded.. This is a mode the ECU goes in when it detects that the engine is getting more air then it would in stock form. So the ECU takes out about 10 to 15deg of timing and adds about 40% extra fuel.

This causes the car to run like absolute shit. Nissan did not want people buying their skylines and turning the boostup, thrashing the f**k out of them and then blowing them up and returning them back to standard and claiming waranty.

Now this has worked, it made it VERY hard to turn the boost up and do mods to the car without changing the ecu, this is why the Apexi Power FC was introduced, to overcome these issues.

Your car has hit a brick wall, there is nothing you can do to fix it untill you buy a aftermarket ECU or use a rubbish bandaid fix like a signal bender (the nissan gods would cast a curse on you for going to the darkside if you do this)

To keep the Nissan gods happy, you should purchase a Power FC and get it tuned and this problem will go away and you will achieve the power curve that i have shown in this pic.

Hope this helps, sorry to say but there is NO way around this appart from the solution I have given you.

PS, PM me if you want to buy a power fc for $700USD :P

good luck with it.

Diagbyguilttoy.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248712-odd-misfire/#findComment-4315052
Share on other sites

Thankyou for the informative post :D

Its nice to see something like that after have 2 topics here in the UK which are both 3 pages long ;)

Is there anyway that a FPR could help my situation before going to mapping ?

And also how would an EBC help my situation with the boost curve ? Or did you mean a boost controller in general to up it a bit ?

Ta again :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248712-odd-misfire/#findComment-4315058
Share on other sites

Thankyou for the informative post :D

Its nice to see something like that after have 2 topics here in the UK which are both 3 pages long ;)

Is there anyway that a FPR could help my situation before going to mapping ?

And also how would an EBC help my situation with the boost curve ? Or did you mean a boost controller in general to up it a bit ?

Ta again :P

No problemo's.

No. Fuel pressure regulator will do nothing but cause you to pull out more hair then you have so far.

The EBC will help you have a flatter boost curve, instead of it spiking up all the way to redline it will hold the same boost from 3000rpm to 7000rpm.

Honestly mate, there is no way around this. I pulled my hair out back in 2004 with R&R issues and i know it is sooo frustrating. I was shamed at dyno days only making 198hp at the wheels because of R&R and I really had no money to buy a power fc so i tried and tried and tried. I ended up finding a way to make some money and buying a power FC and fixing the problem.

Seriously, buy yourself a power fc. You will not regret it. The difference as one guy told me after installing a power fc and tuning it in his car "it was like jumping out of a 3 cyl car and jumping into a powerfull V8"

You have no idea how alive your car will be once you get your power fc installed and tuned properly... I have tuned many of these cars and get a kick of out it when the owners come back from their test drive with a massive smile on their face.

it really makes a massive difference.. You should try and save up the money and buy the ECU upgrade and get it tuned properly because the difference it will make to your car is just un believable.

*goes off to get another drink* ;)

back from drink, and drunk it.. here is where R&R is hitting in and where your AFR curve should be once tuned properly with a Power FC.

randr.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248712-odd-misfire/#findComment-4315062
Share on other sites

emanage will do it, but a power fc will do it better, you get what you pay for.

Alternatives to the power fc are available [haltech, vipec, link, autronic, motec, etc etc] and they all have their good and bad points, but the power fc is the simplest best known genuine plug and play solution, it will slot into your system and work straight away [with a tune up of cause].

ohh and it has the most support and is the best known - and Guilt Toy knows his skylines inside out so listen to him.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248712-odd-misfire/#findComment-4315144
Share on other sites

Hmmmmm interesting !

Haltech, vipec, links, autronic and motec are very rarely used over here so finding someone capable of using them could be an issue !

The main things used over here are Power fc and emanage.

Some less used things inclue Link, f-con and omex.

There is also a tuner that does a stage 1 chip

RSP Stage 1 ECU Upgrade to run the following mods.

Full exhaust system

Induction

Front Mount Intercooler

Boost increase upto .85b

Bear in mind I know nothing about any of the systems ivel isted other than the names :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248712-odd-misfire/#findComment-4315145
Share on other sites

emanage will be fine for your application mate.

Good luck with it! please post some pics of your car.. just like seeing pics of skylines overseas etc etc.

cheers

Looks like ill be saving up for ultimate then if it works with my wasted spark setup.

Its not really a skyline though.................................. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248712-odd-misfire/#findComment-4316069
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...