Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know where i can find a list of all the bulbs, interior and exterior for a r34 GTR...i need to replace some if not most but all i can ever manage to find is the oem P/N whic does me no good. i need the generic bulb type so i can get a replacement without having to order it from nissan japan.

please help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249229-light-bulbs/
Share on other sites

The English version of the R34 GT-T & GT-R Owner's Manual says...

Headlight = 60/55 but Xenon from Nissan

Front turn signal light = 21W

Side turn signal light = 5W

Front clearance light = 5W

Rear turn signal light = 21W

Stop/Tail = 21/5W

Back-up = 13W for 2 door or 21W for 4 door

High-mounted stop light = 18W

Fog light = 55W

license plate light = 5W

Interior light = 10W

Front personal light = 10W without sunroof or 5W with sunroof

Trunk light = 3.4W

So far, so good...

Tez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249229-light-bulbs/#findComment-4323089
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...