Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys all i have to say is wats the point in flaming someone over a turbo???

I have a set of 2860R -5's on my 34 GTR and believe me they are far from "big" or laggy. They will make 320awkw with ease all u need is the right fuel setup. Mine made 310awkw with stock injectors and stock fuel pump all i added was a FPR.

Bakes, as iv told you in PM's these turbos are very responsive, you basically cant tell the difference between these and the stockies, and they pull all the way to redline. Ideally you'd like to have injectors and a fuel setup to allow you to push past the 320 mark, so thats wat stopped me at this stage but with your setup u shud see a figure between 320-350awkw...

As for the -7's being a better option im pretty sure they are much laggier and a bigger turbo which punch out more power, so no not a better option. i had the same prob wen i went through this decision making few months back, i do not regret the choice i made, but again i wanted good power without sacrificing response.

Martin Donnon has stated in Issue 93 of High Performance Imports that the turbos Im getting are the pick of the bunch even for 300rwkw so I dont need luck. Ill take his advice over some of the internet experts here.

This thread has turned into a joke, delete it. Still no help in support mods I may need, keep flaming my turbo selection by all means!

Bakes: Check the thread I posted a link to mate, it has answers to your support mods questions in there which is why I posted it in the first place :banana:

Massive: "As for the -7's being a better option im pretty sure they are much laggier and a bigger turbo" - Nah mate, the -5's are bigger which is why they will flow over 400rwkw's if required. -7's are the smaller GT-SS/N1 equivalent.

My "Good luck" is a genuine one, no sarcasm, have fun with the build process and let us know how you go.

Cheers

Bakes: Check the thread I posted a link to mate, it has answers to your support mods questions in there which is why I posted it in the first place :banana:

Massive: "As for the -7's being a better option im pretty sure they are much laggier and a bigger turbo" - Nah mate, the -5's are bigger which is why they will flow over 400rwkw's if required. -7's are the smaller GT-SS/N1 equivalent.

My "Good luck" is a genuine one, no sarcasm, have fun with the build process and let us know how you go.

Cheers

No worries, so besides the turbos I really only need some injectors and a Power FC.

Definitely going to need a computer to have it tuned, don't think you had one on your currently equipped items list. .

Injectors, I thought, were a must but Massive is saying he made a similar figure without them, I'd not heard of that before and I think I'd rather shell out the extra bucks then lean too hard on the stockers and risk leaning out.

What duty cycle are you injectors on at that power Massive?

At this power you're starting to push the bottom end so reducing the risk that anything else can go wrong, like running lean on maxed injectors, is a good idea.

Ben at RacePace is widely regarded as a GT-R modification and tuning expert so he will have his own opinions on this too and has proven his expertise time and time again. A quick call to him might be a good idea too.

Brand will come down to your personal choice and budget, anything 550cc up should be sufficient for 320kw's from what I understand but if you intend to pop this motor and go for 400rwkw's later you might want to just get a suitable injector now. Results shown on this board indicate that 550's will be close to 90% duty at this power. Which makes me wonder how you can get to 310 like Massive did on stockers, must be some crazy pressure...

I am running -7s. I have 320AWKW. I have 20PSI by about 3,500-4,000RPM. What's the point of having 320AWKW but waiting until 4,500+ for full boost?

They are similar to stock turbo's for response, but handle a lot higher levels of boost. Don't bother with the -5's unless you want lag :banana:. Internet experts? How is that guy more qualified than any of us? Because he writes in a magazine? Think, SAU is full of real world people with these cars and these turbo set ups. People actually using them.

If you got -5's you'll regret it.

700's should be fine and give you some head room though I'm not sure if they'll keep up with what the turbo can do later down the track if you do rebuild. Can always sell'em off.

Edited by ActionDan
I am running -7s. I have 320AWKW. I have 20PSI by about 3,500RPM. What's the point of having 320AWKW but waiting until 4,500 for full boost?

They are similar to stock turbo's for response, but handle a lot higher levels of boost. Don't bother with the -5's unless you want lag :banana: . Internet experts? How is that guy more qualified than any of us? Because he writes in a magazine? Think, SAU is full of real world people with these cars and these turbo set ups. People actually using them.

If you got -5's you'll regret it.

OMG here we go again. lol at lag, 500rpm difference or less if tuned correctly. Mass and others have said that the -5 have similar to stock turbo response, -5 will do the -7 job at lower boost and I can make more power on them later if i want to.

Im over it, I have the info I need, some injectors and a Power FC is all I need. Lock the thread up!

Cams/Gears will get him pretty close, it might not be as responsive as the -7's but the -7's will NOT be suitable for his intentions down the track. No point buying two sets of turbos if you don't have to. Also, less boost means less chance of busting the RB's bottom end sooner than one might like...

Cams/Gears will get him pretty close, it might not be as responsive as the -7's but the -7's will NOT be suitable for his intentions down the track. No point buying two sets of turbos if you don't have to. Also, less boost means less chance of busting the RB's bottom end sooner than one might like...

Exactly!

Plenty of people have upgraded from -7 to -5 and never looked back if you go through the various threads on GTR UK forum, Im just skipping the -7 step :banana:

When I was deciding between the two I went for a spin in a GTR with -5's and one with -7's, the -7's were an entirely different driving experience. But each to their own.

Also - as for the injectors, I am running 700cc injectors which get to about 75% duty cycle full throttle.

Yes -7's will be more responsive but they also require more boost and will NOT be suitable for later goals, which is an important distinction here. So for Bakes they're not the best choice.

Cheers on the injector info, that should Help Bakes make a decision about how big to go on those.

When I was deciding between the two I went for a spin in a GTR with -5's and one with -7's, the -7's were an entirely different driving experience. But each to their own.

Like I said mate, there are others that say the opposite to what you are saying also so each to their own as you say

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...