Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

was reading through a hot 4's magazine where it said that we should maintain our coilpacks so they don't fail on us. "Removal and inspection is the best bet, with frequent lubrication of the silicone seals that live between the coil and spark plug being the best way of stopping moisture ingress"

can someone clarify where lubrication is meant to occur? i'm afraid i will put lubrication which will inhibit the spark travelling down to the plug

here's a pic if someone wants to draw on it :banana:

splitfire_coils_3.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250235-coilpack-maintenance/
Share on other sites

From what I can understand from that statement, the oil is just to help prevent moisture making its way down to the plug and shorting out the coilpack......no?

I don't think this maintenance is going to stop age taking it's toll on the coilpack itself.

Edited by KeyMaker

I don't think i've ever heard of a coil pack failing due to moisture.

Its usually heat, over time, cracking the coil pack casing or they just wear out.

Just ignore hot4's IMO. It doesn't apply to every make, model.

I don't think i've ever heard of a coil pack failing due to moisture.

Its usually heat, over time, cracking the coil pack casing or they just wear out.

Just ignore hot4's IMO. It doesn't apply to every make, model.

its hard to know what to do when you see things like this;

"Corrosion, formed by the presence of liquid around the plug and coil pack, is one of the greatest electrical resistors known to mankind, providing enough of a blockage to the voltage transfer process to keep the spark plug from firing correctly. Once the whole shooting match has been dried out, there is also the ever-present threat of corrosion in the form of white chalky powerd that once more will inhibit the spark plug firing... Always run your centre cover too, as the myths started about coil packs overheating and shutting down are absolute rubbish."

the article contained a test dummy ca18det engine with aftermarket coil packs which produced all over less power and could not even rev out without misfiring (where the standard ones worked fine). i thought it would be applicable as its another similar aged import nissan engine.

but i really have no idea, i havent run a center cover for 18+ months and was a bit concerned i was ignoring the maintennace of my car?

Suggest ignore after you put your new coil packs in. Unless of course your pouring water in the wells. The cover will help but even without a cover I'd suggest you have a decade or more of peace of mind. It will fail from heat b4 it fails from water seeping in.

Hit em with WD40 if your concerned.

BTW ~ What's Kmart Racing? Sheeeezus! mate!

Edited by Sinista32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...