Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like this eastbear spolier

Yes I'm aware Powerplay sell them (and they're 2min drive from me) but from what I've read on here they have to order it in and people have been waiting 1year+ and I'm not the patient type..

Has to be the original (plastic) item to suit GTT frontbar (not an eastbear bar) - willing to pay more than new price from powerplay due to waiting times.

Edit: just to clarify, I'm after the frontbar spoiler, not the bonnet lip.

Edited by Delta Force

Have you checked out nengun? Part #R34FS04 $695.51 plus shipping.. not a bad price I reckon.

http://www.nengun.com/east-bear/front-spoi...ior-term-bumper

Btw, check out the side ducts east bear make for the S1 bumper bar too.. they look crazy.

$890 delivered from nengun and their reputation when it comes to delivery times is not any better than powerplays ..plus they're overseas so I can't just rock up at their shopfront if there are issues like i can with PP.

Anyway .. happy to get 2nd hand one from someone here and pay a bit more as long as it's in a good condition. Got a link to the ducts ?? Cheers

Guess i've had a different experience with nengun and powerplay. Ordered from both of them, and found the delivery times and customer service excellent.

Anyhow.. here's a link to the ducts... they're the umm ducts nutz :D

http://www.east-bear.co.jp/shop/image_view...03013000008.jpg

mm not sure what I'm looking for in those photos to be honest ?

Edit: never mind think I see what you mean (top right pic?) I prefer the smooth factory look to be honest like in the top left pic.

Edited by Delta Force

has anyone used neweraparts.com ?

apparently they have this item in stock and can ship to sydney total cost $800

http://www.neweraparts.com/Default.aspx?ta...p;ProductID=625

hm anyone ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...