Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So if the cam marks are where they should be, The belt hasn't jumped a tooth and if the timing light is showing the right angle then this would rule out the cam? Or would i still need to replace the cam for one with a key and the CAS for one with a key?
I suggested that the timing light was showing the WRONG angle. Check it - it should be 15BTDC at idle.

Forget about the cam / CAS - just get the ignition timing right. (you don't need to replace the cam or the CAS)

Well they have done a compression test and said that the compression was pretty low on each cylinder. But they were all the same. They told me that they have been busy the past few days and that tomorrow they will be able to put in a propper look.

Maybe you've done a head gasket or got a split in the plenum? seems odd that it was fine 1st thing then not a bit later. I can't wait to hear what the problem was, no doubt it will be nothing we have suggested here lol

Well friday morning the solinoid that adjust's the valve timing was working fine. Then later in the day it stoped working. The ECU was not sending the turn on command. Then this morning 1st thing it was working fine again. It was even sending the command this morning when it wasn't connected to the solinoid. Which rules out the solinoid as being faulty. The few things we noticed was there was a colent temp sensor error. and the O2 signal was at 0Volts. So were changing the O2 sensor and the colent sensor. Then were going to throw it back on the dyno and see if it's happy or not.

dude i have told you its the CAS it will cut in and out random thats why i said give it a tap on the dyno thats why it was fine for ya drive then went back to shit, also o2 sensors dont do anything except economy when ya tune a car you disable the o2 sensors so dont bother changing them and your tuning shop should know this are you sure thy know what they are doing?

Well friday morning the solinoid that adjust's the valve timing was working fine. Then later in the day it stoped working. The ECU was not sending the turn on command. Then this morning 1st thing it was working fine again. It was even sending the command this morning when it wasn't connected to the solinoid. Which rules out the solinoid as being faulty. The few things we noticed was there was a colent temp sensor error. and the O2 signal was at 0Volts. So were changing the O2 sensor and the colent sensor. Then were going to throw it back on the dyno and see if it's happy or not.
I would suggest you have a broken wire somewhere in the loom to the solenoid. It is intermittently losing connection because of vibrations, then making the connection again.

Try permanently powering the solenoid - see how the car goes. Try a new connection between the ECU and the solenoid.

there was a thread on here where a guy had a misfire on his GTR.

he changed every single thing that everyone suggested.

then later, he found that the LOOM, where it goes through the panel work, had rubbed against the metal.. eventually, one wire got scratched open and would keep thouching the bodywork, causing a short out each time, which was like a missfire for the owner.

I'm sure it was near the wheel well...

might be something else you can add to your list to check.

I think he has a missfire thread here..

I know your's isn't a missfire and neither was his really...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...