Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine are off at the moment, but I am waiting to reassemble the rail replacement kit. We should have these available to purchase in the next couple of months: I will post when they are ready... :P

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. so basically, pull off the roof lining, unbolt the roof racks, put in (your) rail replacements and bobs your uncle?

how much you looking at selling these for roughly?

will defintely have to ge tone off ya when they are made :P

cost is not yet finalised, but they'll be reasonable. Remember, you also have to fill the holes left in the roof by the rails themselves: they screw through the roof metal... Thr ails are HEAVY! wait 'til you have them off: must do wonders for the centre of gravity... Will keep you posted as to timeframe/cost, but am expecting to start fitment in the next week or 2....

*edit* Actually, I don't have them in front of me, but i THINK the replacements have screws in them...

  • 6 months later...

Yeah, sorry guys: I was led around in circles for months over this by the body shop in question, and have decided to get mine done the old fashioned way (welded metal). However, I have a proposition for you:

The rail replacement kit I bought from Japan does not fit to my liking, which is where the issues started: we were going to make a hybrid rail replacement using parts of my Japanese kit, and moulded sectios of the factory rail trims (the black strip along the roof that the rail slots into), to create a much better quality product. This was due to the front end of the Jap rail kit sitting way too high at the windscreen end. The issue was that the smash repairs I used for my respray bent the rail trims on my car when they removed them, so we had to supply a donor car.

Long story short: we had everything organised and ready to with 20 mins notice, and were misled, palmed off and lied to for months,because the body shop didn't want the work, but didn't want anyone else to have it either. Once they started telling other Stagea owners that Myself and the donor car's owner were to blame for the delays, I pulled the plug on them, and now refuse to recommend them to anyone.

Anyway, enough of my ranting: let's get down to what I can do for you:

THE PROPOSITION:

I am willing to give my Japanese roof rail replacement kit (which by the way cost in excess of $900 and 6 monthsof my time) to a member of these fine forums for free, ON THE PROVISO THAT THEY FINISH WHAT I STARTED. That is: I want you to use them, and your factory rail trims (if necessary) and come up with moulds so that the rest of the guys and girls on here can purchase rail replacement kits for their own Stags (preferably at close to cost price, but I can't tell a body shop what to charge), if they choose to.

Obviously, I have no way of Policing this myself, so I will have to rely on the honety and integrity of whomever gets them to do the right thing, but damn it: this is such a good group, I want to do something for the benefit of the SAU stag community: you guys have helped me out no end, and I appreciate it!

Here ends my proposal. Let the volunteers make themselves known!

i know a crash repairer in adelaide who has done some work on my stag,im very good mates with his brother.he mite be able to make something up,but he would have to look at the rail kit and work out whats going on,he didnt know what a stagea was till he saw mine.as for providing the kit to others,im more than happy,as long as i can get it done at a reasonable price for everyone

let me know what you think micah,pm me if you like

S1 and S1 are identical, to the best of my knowledge. Anyone got access to Nissan parts catalogue? If not, I'll try giving the local dealership a s1 and a s2 vin, and see what part numbers they come up with...

RBD2 - sounds good, but transport is difficult: they've aready been cut and joined once, so ideally, I'd like to not have to cut them again: If Darrin's guy is able to do it, I'll be able to drive them up to him. If not, then I'll consider whipping out the Jig saw....

Micah I just sent you a text :D

If you are prepared to pay for quality

Cut and paste email form Andrew ate CCubed

Will need a 50% deposit form people $300/600 upfront!!!!

"Ok, I am always nervous of group buys, we would need to get things sorted properly with everyone who is buying these units.

Not to say I don't want to do it, but I've seen these things go pear shaped all too often.

Ok on to your questions,

1. Time frame.

I would need to get the offending pieces down to me here and fit them to my spare car and see what we have to be able to give a realistic time frame.

But ball parking it I would say one week to fit and modify the plug, one week to mould and then one week per pair of products. BUT! that depends on when this order is placed at the moment we have approx a 4 week lead time. So say you got things moving in the next couple of weeks, it would be one six weeks to have the moulds ready to produce parts and then products to follow on weekly intervals from there. That would be with deposit paid orders too, I've been stiffed too many times on things like this, so no deposit no order.

Costs

You would be looking at about $600.00/pr in fibreglass. That's a gelcoat finish ready to be given to a paint shop etc.

For carbon you would b paying $1,200.00/pr.

All our components are vacuum formed and resin infused. This allows us to maintain a extremely high level of quality and finish.

We only use high quality resins as these are much more stable and of a higher structural grade. If you need more information regarding this process please let us know."

Has anyone considered making rail replacements out of strips of auto body mould like found at clark rubber?

ie remove existing rail, buy about 5m of 2in wide rubber body body mould (like the bump strips on the side of cars), cut it to length and stick it to the roof where the rail was?

I think i'll head down to clark rubber to see if they have something suitable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...