Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine are off at the moment, but I am waiting to reassemble the rail replacement kit. We should have these available to purchase in the next couple of months: I will post when they are ready... :P

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. so basically, pull off the roof lining, unbolt the roof racks, put in (your) rail replacements and bobs your uncle?

how much you looking at selling these for roughly?

will defintely have to ge tone off ya when they are made :P

cost is not yet finalised, but they'll be reasonable. Remember, you also have to fill the holes left in the roof by the rails themselves: they screw through the roof metal... Thr ails are HEAVY! wait 'til you have them off: must do wonders for the centre of gravity... Will keep you posted as to timeframe/cost, but am expecting to start fitment in the next week or 2....

*edit* Actually, I don't have them in front of me, but i THINK the replacements have screws in them...

  • 6 months later...

Yeah, sorry guys: I was led around in circles for months over this by the body shop in question, and have decided to get mine done the old fashioned way (welded metal). However, I have a proposition for you:

The rail replacement kit I bought from Japan does not fit to my liking, which is where the issues started: we were going to make a hybrid rail replacement using parts of my Japanese kit, and moulded sectios of the factory rail trims (the black strip along the roof that the rail slots into), to create a much better quality product. This was due to the front end of the Jap rail kit sitting way too high at the windscreen end. The issue was that the smash repairs I used for my respray bent the rail trims on my car when they removed them, so we had to supply a donor car.

Long story short: we had everything organised and ready to with 20 mins notice, and were misled, palmed off and lied to for months,because the body shop didn't want the work, but didn't want anyone else to have it either. Once they started telling other Stagea owners that Myself and the donor car's owner were to blame for the delays, I pulled the plug on them, and now refuse to recommend them to anyone.

Anyway, enough of my ranting: let's get down to what I can do for you:

THE PROPOSITION:

I am willing to give my Japanese roof rail replacement kit (which by the way cost in excess of $900 and 6 monthsof my time) to a member of these fine forums for free, ON THE PROVISO THAT THEY FINISH WHAT I STARTED. That is: I want you to use them, and your factory rail trims (if necessary) and come up with moulds so that the rest of the guys and girls on here can purchase rail replacement kits for their own Stags (preferably at close to cost price, but I can't tell a body shop what to charge), if they choose to.

Obviously, I have no way of Policing this myself, so I will have to rely on the honety and integrity of whomever gets them to do the right thing, but damn it: this is such a good group, I want to do something for the benefit of the SAU stag community: you guys have helped me out no end, and I appreciate it!

Here ends my proposal. Let the volunteers make themselves known!

i know a crash repairer in adelaide who has done some work on my stag,im very good mates with his brother.he mite be able to make something up,but he would have to look at the rail kit and work out whats going on,he didnt know what a stagea was till he saw mine.as for providing the kit to others,im more than happy,as long as i can get it done at a reasonable price for everyone

let me know what you think micah,pm me if you like

S1 and S1 are identical, to the best of my knowledge. Anyone got access to Nissan parts catalogue? If not, I'll try giving the local dealership a s1 and a s2 vin, and see what part numbers they come up with...

RBD2 - sounds good, but transport is difficult: they've aready been cut and joined once, so ideally, I'd like to not have to cut them again: If Darrin's guy is able to do it, I'll be able to drive them up to him. If not, then I'll consider whipping out the Jig saw....

Micah I just sent you a text :D

If you are prepared to pay for quality

Cut and paste email form Andrew ate CCubed

Will need a 50% deposit form people $300/600 upfront!!!!

"Ok, I am always nervous of group buys, we would need to get things sorted properly with everyone who is buying these units.

Not to say I don't want to do it, but I've seen these things go pear shaped all too often.

Ok on to your questions,

1. Time frame.

I would need to get the offending pieces down to me here and fit them to my spare car and see what we have to be able to give a realistic time frame.

But ball parking it I would say one week to fit and modify the plug, one week to mould and then one week per pair of products. BUT! that depends on when this order is placed at the moment we have approx a 4 week lead time. So say you got things moving in the next couple of weeks, it would be one six weeks to have the moulds ready to produce parts and then products to follow on weekly intervals from there. That would be with deposit paid orders too, I've been stiffed too many times on things like this, so no deposit no order.

Costs

You would be looking at about $600.00/pr in fibreglass. That's a gelcoat finish ready to be given to a paint shop etc.

For carbon you would b paying $1,200.00/pr.

All our components are vacuum formed and resin infused. This allows us to maintain a extremely high level of quality and finish.

We only use high quality resins as these are much more stable and of a higher structural grade. If you need more information regarding this process please let us know."

Has anyone considered making rail replacements out of strips of auto body mould like found at clark rubber?

ie remove existing rail, buy about 5m of 2in wide rubber body body mould (like the bump strips on the side of cars), cut it to length and stick it to the roof where the rail was?

I think i'll head down to clark rubber to see if they have something suitable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...