Jump to content
SAU Community

Dyno Tuning?...

Anquetil

By Anquetil,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Anquetil Mentor

Anquetil

Posted
Posted

Just wanted to know what sort of tuning can actually be done to say a RB25DET when you only have the stock ECU?

When I first started reading these forums I was under the impression (and i'm sure others still are) that the the factory ECU could be retuned by anyone :P

But I soon realised that it can only be done if you have a remapped/rechipped ECU or you have a PowerFC etc...

My bosses brother owns an Ultra-Tune outlet, so I can possibly get a significant discount or even free dyno time.

I know what some are saying "Ewww! Not UT!" But hes no spring chicken when it comes to Jap Imports having tweaked his own RX7 and his brothers S14.

So, allot of people mention getting their cars tuned but what is actually tweaked when you have a stock ECU... A/F ratio's, timing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25276-dyno-tuning/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Timing, idle speed, that is about it as far as I know... the ECU adjusts most things internally to keep everything running smoothly. Like most modern cars, its pretty much self-tuning. But while jap cars are pretty flexible in adapting to a few modifications (such as a bit more boost, greater air intake, better exhaust), once you go beyond this basic 20% or so, you're starting to go beyond what the original ECU was designed to adapt for.

Most people run some sort of aftermarket fuel management (such an S-AFC, or like you say, a full aftermarket ECU) to be able to really tune the car to its full potential.

Don't think the dyno will be that useful until you really start getting into that side of things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25276-dyno-tuning/#findComment-538955
Share on other sites
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

A second hand S-AFC is probably the best bang for buck tuning tool you have available for an R33. It should cost around $350 (I just sold mine for that, heh) plus $150 for tuning, and you will have an easy 20 extra rwkw, not to mention smoother running and better fuel economy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25276-dyno-tuning/#findComment-539099
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...