Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i was having a bit of a fiddle the other day on my car fitting up a catch can.

Popped the bonnet after driving for a while to check everything was sweet with it, and it was... BUT i had a nasty surprise.

Checked the whole engine bay and found what i thought was brake fluid pissed up all over the drivers side of the engine bay (had gone onto top of the intake plenum, bottom of the bonnet, over my fuel filter etc.).. i had a quick look for any obvious leaks but couldnt see anything major.

I immediately washed all of the fluid off, obviously trying to protect everything from corroding. I automatically assumed it was the brake master cylinder, as it looked to be brake fluid, so after washing it all off i got my girlfriend to pump the brakes and see what happened. There was a slight leak/ weeping from the bottom of the brake master cylinder, so i thought it was that. The fluid inside it also looked quite murky, so i thought it was corroded. I have now taken it off and bought a freshly reconditioned unit.

I thought id have another look around the engine bay before fitting it and i saw what i thought may have actually been the cause.. the hicas pump (i think thats what it is) there is two 14mm sized heads on the top of the unit and one of them looked a bit black/ oily, but i checked and it was very tight. i felt underneath my alarm siren and there was fluid all over the bottom of it.... this has lead me to think that it may be this pump...

anyone got a theory of which one it could be? or could it have been something else all together...

I am going to fit my master cylinder and bleed all the lines etc. anyways, but just worried that it may not have even been the cause in the first place..

sorry about the essay.. kinda noobie when it comes to this kinda stuff.

Thanks, Reece

First things first.

Is your car manual or auto??? This second cylinder, is it near the brake master cylinder???

If it is and your car is a manual (which it most likely is), it will most certainly be the "clutch" master cylinder.

It will not be the hicas as the hicas is run from an electric motor on the back of the diff.

I hope that helps,

Shaun.

^^^^^ correction. R32 run a hydraulic system for the HICAS. and when the clutch master cylinder goes it tends to leak into the cabin, not the engine bay.

Greasy - your hicas pump is apart of the power steering pump. the only thing on the drivers side of the engine bay to do with the hicas is a control solinoid. if you have checked all the fitting on it and you don't seem to be using any powersteering fluid it wont be that.

Edited by QWK32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...