Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Buy Replacement Pillowball Bearings For Hks Coilovers?

Medium Dave
 Share

Recommended Posts

Medium Dave Proficient

Medium Dave

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone might be able to tell me where I can find some replacement pillowball bearings for the strut tops in my HKS hipermax coilovers? I have been searching on the interwebs and it seems that they wear out quite frequently, being a spherical bearing of course they would and I would have thought they werent so difficult to locate, but I cant find where to get them from? - Or if they are just totally unavailable, what can I do/use to replace them? - I would be happy with a rubber mount - I just want something that doesn't sound like a datsun 120Y :)

Thanks in advance :(

Goosy Collaborator

Goosy

Posted
Posted

UAS had some HKS pillowball mounts on it's shelves when I went in today.

Didn't get a price or anything tho, and they don't seem to have them listed on their site.

Maybe it's worth giving them a call.

  • 2 weeks later...
Medium Dave Proficient

Medium Dave

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers Dave, thats what UAS actually recommended :( I was thinking that no way they would be a standard bearing! Happy to be wrong this time tho! -I will see if I can find out the specific type/part numbers and post them up should anyone need in future

KLR33 Community Regular

KLR33

Posted
Posted

most spherical bearings used in shocks have a teflon liner

i have replaced a few

a normal spherical bearing with out the liner or bush will cost aprox 25

a teflon lined or bushed spherical bearing will cost around 90- 140

teflon bushed have a much higher load rating

u may need a special tool to remove the bearing from the shock top

i had problems finding the exact size i needed , had to mod/machine the tein top

i got my last lot from SES linear bearings , milperra, 9792 7188

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...