Jump to content
SAU Community

Something is wrong =(

BoOsTeD_RB26

By BoOsTeD_RB26,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BoOsTeD_RB26 Experienced

BoOsTeD_RB26

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Just of last night I have been having some problems with my car. First of all the idle has become really really rough. The car will literally "shake". Im not exactly sure what it is but it seems to be excessively rich as it struggles to stay alive.

I put new plugs in it today but they did absolutely nothing.

Could it be the AFMs?

When the car is like this, the boost gauge also "flickers" while it is in vaccum.

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25283-something-is-wrong/
Share on other sites
Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Sounds like it may be a vacuum leak.

The ecu is measuring the air that comes through the AFM, but too much air gets in, so the ecu compensates by adding more fuel as it tries to maintain idle, then it over fuels, cuts the fuel - viscious cycle.

If it is vacuum, you will notice it alot more when hot than when cold too.

My guess anyways:)

have you checked all your vacuum lines?

MRK25T Experienced

MRK25T

Posted
Posted

I may have similar problems with my car.

When I stop up a hill (this occurs when driving normaly beforehand) the revs drop really low (sometimes at this point the car stalls) and then pick themselves. This loops for about 5 seconds (at a frequenct of about 1 cycle per .5sec) and then the revs stabalize.

Background:

I have a s2 R33 gtst.

I have a blitz BOV.

My AFM maxes out at less than 250rwhp on the dyno.

Sometimes when going up a hill at about 4000rpm by engine check light flashes (indicating my AFM is maxing out - its not the quick flashing that indicates pinging).

I'm running low boost (0.6bar) when this happens.

There is a Z32AFM sitting under my bed waiting to be installed to fix my AFM problems.

Anyone know what my problem is?

Mark

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Well I am not sure if this is the prob, but does the pump have a non return vavle fitted? I have seen the non return valve taken off the top of 044 pumps to make them easier to connect.

I am sort of guessing :P, but when at idle the fuel pump will switch on and off as fuel pressure increases and decreases, just like when you turn the ignition on and dont start the car, the pump will prime then shut down. I am thinking that perhaps the pump is shutting down, and fuel may be returning back down the lines, which isnt a major problem until you are facing up a hill.

Have a look at boostmeisters low engine rpm stalling thread, goes into detail of wiring fuel pumps to be constantly on to avoid such dramas. Not sure if this is your prob, but may be:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...