Jump to content
SAU Community

R33/r34 Gtr Bilsteins (sydney Kid Setup And Something Else)

GTRNUR
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Cleaning out the last of my R33 GTR parts and I have 2 sets of shocks for sale.

First off is the Sydney Kid R33 GTR kit. I had this in my R33 GTR for about 4000km, but the new owner of the car wanted the price lowered so this came out and in went an R34 setup instead. Spring rates are 4/3KG and are valved as per Sydney Kids group buy kit. Handles great as many will agree with.

Paid $1500 but will accept offers around $1000 and will negotiate/swap for parts and cash depending on what you have to offer.

The second set of bilsteins are of an unknown valving configuration. They are pretty firm but are re-buildable so for anyone wanting to make a custom set they are a cheap starting point. $150 ono.

Parts are located in Cairns, North Queensland. Will freight anywhere. PM or call me on 0434 147 478 if your interested.

DSC01576.JPG

Cheers,

Ian .

MR_SAZ Newbie

MR_SAZ

Posted
Posted
Hi all,

Cleaning out the last of my R33 GTR parts and I have 2 sets of shocks for sale.

First off is the Sydney Kid R33 GTR kit. I had this in my R33 GTR for about 4000km, but the new owner of the car wanted the price lowered so this came out and in went an R34 setup instead. Spring rates are 4/3KG and are valved as per Sydney Kids group buy kit. Handles great as many will agree with.

Paid $1500 but will accept offers around $1000 and will negotiate/swap for parts and cash depending on what you have to offer.

The second set of bilsteins are of an unknown valving configuration. They are pretty firm but are re-buildable so for anyone wanting to make a custom set they are a cheap starting point. $150 ono.

Parts are located in Cairns, North Queensland. Will freight anywhere. PM or call me on 0434 147 478 if your interested.

DSC01576.JPG

Cheers,

Ian Swinkels.

Are they Both off GTR's??

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes indeed, both sets are R33 GTR, but also fit an R34 GTR and R34 GTT.

The setup pictured on the right is the sydney kid setup with the 4/3kg springs

The shocks on the left are the unknows that can be used as cores for a rebuild/custom dampner setup. No springs on this set though as you can see. When you go custom the springs need to match your valving anyway so you'd buy new springs to suit what you would have done to the shocks.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Are the Sydneykid Bilsteins valved for street or for track?

What are the differences between R32 and R33GTR Shocks? I notice the rear lower mount looks wider, are there any other differences?

Are they Sydneykids Eibach springs?

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They are very streetable but work on the track as well (though I'd never done anything more than a motorkarna event with them in my previous R33 GTR). They were a huge improvement over my Teins that I had previously.

Yes they are eibach springs, 4/3Kg. I have no idea how they compare to an R32 GTR setup. Its possible the top hats just need changing to make them compatible but I dont really know and I dont have any means of comparison either... sorry.

  • 2 weeks later...
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bump... and price drop.

Now accepting any reasonable offer and will also accept swaps of other skyline parts. Im building 2 engines at the moment and are chasing all sorts of parts so tell me what you've got and im sure we can work out a deal.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...