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Cyric;

I just fitted a GTR rear strut brace to my GTST( I hope you mean the one in the boot) And as you said I just tightened the begeebers out of it. The only problem that I saw with this was that the middle section of the brace looked crooked to the eye so I put a straight edge on the sucker and sure enough it was ! One of the rods was at a slight angle after I tightened it up, bastard ! The only way to get around this was to redrill the brackets about 8mm further out to reduce the thread length at the center adjusting nut. Now the bugger is straight and has the right amount of tension without being skewif. Just watch out that you drill thr hole exactaly in the right place(lots of carful measuring).

Hope this is of some help Dude.

yep thats great thanx dude :P its already been fitted in my car so the holes are already good to go, i just need to take the bar out so i can work on the battery and put a couple of shelves in under the hicas unit.... i was just a bit unsure as to wether or not it had to be 'magically' tightened when i put it back it, but ill just do as you did and tightn the begeebers out of it!!!

The original R33 rear strut brace should fit up to bolts already in place - all the R33 have them, so no drilling should be necessary.

As for tensioning, I dont know if this is right or not, but as my alignment was done without the bar in place, once it was fitted I just set it tight, but didnt over tighten it. The bar is supposed to stop flex, so theoretically if you overtighten it, you may cause flex in the opposite direction. It is a brace after all, not a tensioner:)

My 0.02

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